Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After countless attempts at getting my R33 S2 Gtst to make good power, I am finally there and happy.

It is making 360rwhp and drives like a dream. Prior to this it was making 305rwhp with similar mods. The real difference - the tune (tuner to be exact). Sometimes switching tuners makes all the difference....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291551-back-from-tune/
Share on other sites

After countless attempts at getting my R33 S2 Gtst to make good power, I am finally there and happy.

It is making 360rwhp and drives like a dream. Prior to this it was making 305rwhp with similar mods. The real difference - the tune (tuner to be exact). Sometimes switching tuners makes all the difference....

Dont want to rain on your parade as this is a huge jump just on tune but was it done on the same dyno in same conditions as this might be a reason for some gain which is not really there?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291551-back-from-tune/#findComment-4874979
Share on other sites

I am sure that if the car drives in such a way that he has been excited by it, the numbers probably are reflected in driving experience :P

agreed there would be gains just not close to 20% gain... also worried about the placibo effect you know it must be quicker cause the dyno said so...

i am not trying to be rude i just prefer stats that are real in terms of this... example is my car is identical to my brothers as in we are 100% neck and neck every drag/race but he has 28hp more then me... this is not my skill but a different dyno different day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291551-back-from-tune/#findComment-4875509
Share on other sites

agreed there would be gains just not close to 20% gain... also worried about the placibo effect you know it must be quicker cause the dyno said so...

i am not trying to be rude i just prefer stats that are real in terms of this... example is my car is identical to my brothers as in we are 100% neck and neck every drag/race but he has 28hp more then me... this is not my skill but a different dyno different day.

your brother needs to lay off the pies.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291551-back-from-tune/#findComment-4875523
Share on other sites

some tuners are lazy, and just pull a big chuck off the stock timing and smooth out the A/F ratio, sometimes not even touching the Injection map, they just scale the Air Flow Meter which is purely lazy.

I've borrowed a datalogit and fixed parts of my map up, and added more timing after peak torque (using a combination of old dyno graphs).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291551-back-from-tune/#findComment-4875620
Share on other sites

some tuners are lazy, and just pull a big chuck off the stock timing and smooth out the A/F ratio, sometimes not even touching the Injection map, they just scale the Air Flow Meter which is purely lazy.

I've borrowed a datalogit and fixed parts of my map up, and added more timing after peak torque (using a combination of old dyno graphs).

yeah there is a certain tuner/workshop in Sydney who tunes just like this...it was a mates car so i re-tuned it properly and made heaps of gains in power and response as well as fuel economy...and i cannot tune for sh1t but know enough to get things looking reasonable. Made 450AWKW the next day at Autosalon and won him a trophy...yay :D

this workshop charges big $$ too...pretty piss poor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291551-back-from-tune/#findComment-4875801
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...