Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well obviously im wondering how much of a difference in handling the front strut bar makes

ive lowered my car and taken out the entire a/c system and shifted the batter to the rear of the car and already it handles about a thousand times better

i almost got one put on the car when i lowered it, but the shop that installed my new shocks and lowered the car reckoned that because of the suspension design on the front of skylines, a strut bar doesnt make much difference, but obviously it must make a difference if a gtr gets one.... right?

what do you guys/girls think?

thanks!

Edited by AYW550

Find a new suspension shop. Strut bar is, IMO, a great benefit. Tying the strut tops together helps to stiffen the car up and stops a lot of body flex whic saps performance through the twisty stuff. Just go and get one you know you want to.

I agree with rb ryan!

the top of the strut/shock takes sfa force in a double wishbone setup like skyline compared to say a silvia with strut front suspension. the force is on the inner end of the upper and lower control arm which are not really braced by a strut brace.

btw also gtrs did not come with a strut bar, except n1.

btw also gtrs did not come with a strut bar, except n1.

Really? I thought they did. Mine does and I only wish it were an N1 (although no rear wiper like an N1). Pretty much every GTR I've ever seen has them.

An the extra bracing on the GTR is amazing - there are "extra" bits all over under the car.

yeah seems like a split descision really, id want one for looks just as much as for handling benefits, (but doesnt seem like there are many) any one driven their car before and after a strut brace?

also, how much do they get in the way of working on your car? like in the way of the intake and stuff, would be a pain to tkae it off and on whenever i was under the hood

Edited by AYW550

not sure about the technical suspension setups, but having installed a cusco front brace on my s2 33 just on the weekend, i can tell you GET ONE!!!

I only have shocks, not coilovers - and ive heard that with coilovers the difference is minimal but shocks is definitely recommended.

the difference is actually amazing. Maybe its just my driving style or the way the car is set up but i find now the steering feels much lighter, and the front grip has increased dramatically. For $150 - 200 for a decent one i would not think twice - my opinion now is that they are quite underrated.

As for working on the engine, it seems they are easy to remove (4 nuts) so personally i wouldn't worry about it too much.

Hope that helps :)

One of the first changes I made to my 33 and noticed the difference straight away. Car was more responsive on turn in at normal road speeds let alone track. Get one and you will see.

Edited by skylinecouple
I agree with rb ryan!

the top of the strut/shock takes sfa force in a double wishbone setup like skyline compared to say a silvia with strut front suspension. the force is on the inner end of the upper and lower control arm which are not really braced by a strut brace.

btw also gtrs did not come with a strut bar, except n1.

My R34 sedan got a stock strut brace...

And there are alot of R34s out there that has it stock. :)

I too noticed a tighter and more direct front end.

She is a little bulky with the front diff and half shafts etc though.

The only thing a rear one did was add a little weight to the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

Another benefit you will hopefully not have to find out, is that it does supply extra body rigidity in in an accident..my friend found out the hard way..but was told the car would have been alot worse off had the brace not been there after he put his the front corner of his car into a wall

My car has coilovers and front and rear strut braces and it feels mega tight more like a smaller more nimble car thru the corners,

on saying that i aint drove a std skyline without one, so cant really compare but if mine is anything to go buy they go nice and tight :D

Another benefit you will hopefully not have to find out, is that it does supply extra body rigidity in in an accident..my friend found out the hard way..but was told the car would have been alot worse off had the brace not been there after he put his the front corner of his car into a wall

Do you want more rigidity at the front though?

What you want in a crash is for the driver compartment to stay intact but for everything else to deform/yield and absorb the energy. i.e crumble zones etc. That way the rate of deceleration on the driver/passengers is less.

If you're adding rigidity/strength to the front it's the opposite effect surely?

Tony i think what doozooby was referring to may have been a side impact crash...

i agree with you that a head on crash increasing the rigity may not necesarilly be a good thing, but then again i suppose its not front-back rigidity, its side to side...but im no crash tester expert lol.

Either way i think the question has been answered - handling is improved :D

Do you want more rigidity at the front though?

What you want in a crash is for the driver compartment to stay intact but for everything else to deform/yield and absorb the energy. i.e crumble zones etc. That way the rate of deceleration on the driver/passengers is less.

If you're adding rigidity/strength to the front it's the opposite effect surely?

front = decent amount

rear = not a lot

the strut brace holds not too far away from the upper link at the front, stopping this sideways distortion helps a lot, especially mid corner understeer.

rear does f**k all as all ur links are connected to the subframe, which ur strut brace is no where near. u can add bracing to the subframe, which is the equivilent of a strut brace on the front, but ur talking about nowhere near the amount of flex.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...