Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a pretty general question about tires, currently my stag is running a set of 215 x 55 Bridgestones on the stock 7j 17" rims, the tires have quite a few screws stuck in them and they make a pretty crap noise when cornering . I have a full set of wet weather TOYO tires that were fitted to my track car, I think these will go really well on the stag. Problem is that the tires are 215 x 40 profile, I was wondering what affect going from 55 to 40 profile will have on my speedo?

Doable or not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292582-m35-tire-profiles/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, so if i do this my wheels will be spinning 10.7% faster, so if my speedo says I'm doing 100Kph I'd actually be doing 89Km/hr not including the standard factory over read of about 7Kph.

Maybe I'll give it a miss, don't want to be the slowest thing on the highway!

I find the standard speedo is out by nearly 8km at 100km/h already...wouldn't want to make it worse...

one thing to make sure is that the front and back tyres are all the same diameter & width etc. The AWD system does allow for a minimal difference (ie. to account for uneven tyre wear) but if the difference is too great it will play up.

I'd put them on. Car will handle better. You just need to go by one of those displays at the side of the road that says how fast you are going and then you can calculate what your speedo should read to be doing 109km/hr on the motorway - there's no way you can pull max revs in top gear anyway so your real maximum speed will probably increase (or it would do if you didn't have the 180km/hr speed cut).

You can get a kit from Jaycar to correct your speedo if you need.

one thing to make sure is that the front and back tyres are all the same diameter & width etc. The AWD system does allow for a minimal difference (ie. to account for uneven tyre wear) but if the difference is too great it will play up.

LOL my stag is RWD only bud. Keeps me bright eyed and bushy tailed on wet mornings :)

Cheers for the info Kiwi, might check out Jaycar.

  • 3 weeks later...
might check out Jaycar.

Let me know how you get on with a Jaycar kit if you go that route, I'm keen to recalibrate my speedo also. It seems to read 6-7km/h under at 100km/h. It wouldn't be too bad, but the factory cruise control only goes up to 110km/h, which means 103km/h real, and that sucks :)

VQ25DD,RWD, RX, cruise, navi, HID, but only 16" wheels (wacky size too - 205-65-16)

I have a pretty general question about tires, currently my stag is running a set of 215 x 55 Bridgestones on the stock 7j 17" rims, the tires have quite a few screws stuck in them and they make a pretty crap noise when cornering . I have a full set of wet weather TOYO tires that were fitted to my track car, I think these will go really well on the stag. Problem is that the tires are 215 x 40 profile, I was wondering what affect going from 55 to 40 profile will have on my speedo?

Doable or not?

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

Just remember to keep it under or over 3% variance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...