Jump to content
SAU Community

Help? R34 Owners Please Read...

Factory 5

By Factory 5,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Evening all,

I am looking at purchasing a R34GT-T, 4 door sedan, tiptronic.

Problem is, its in Melbourne (I have actually found one than im very keen on)

Can anyone please add comments or anything that will help me look for problem areas or issues? And is ther anyone in ACT that would be willing to take me for a spin in theirs (to see if i actually fit?)

Main reasons for purchasing an R34:

Nice for long drives, good looks, good power, not 20 years old like R32's, and not as common as R33's

Comparable economy to commhoore or falcon,

The Rb25det NEO is a much better platform to mod from

Im not going to build a balls out track waepon, just a nice daily with some good takeoff ability and overtaking on the way to syd etc

Please any posts are welcome!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293960-help-r34-owners-please-read/
Share on other sites
Randon_I_Am Veteran

Randon_I_Am

Posted
Posted

I have a 34 coupe, man, VERY VERY happy with might i add.

It's currently cluchless atm, well not quite, but its slipping, so no drivey for me. so i can't take ya for a spin. not till next week or the week after...

I'm not much of a fan of the whole 4 door Tiptronic thing though, but each to their own. :thumbsup:

but yes It's a very nice car for long drives.

as for any issues before byring the car, just the usual stuff... theres a thread on here somewhere (not in the act section) that has many a comment on "what to look for when buying a skyline" pretty sure thats the thread name.

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
  • Author
Posted

4 door mainly cos of the kids factor in the next year or 3

Tiptro cos my clutch foot (left) is pretty much shattered from field exercise with the army at the start of the year! I can drive manual, but no longer than an hour , and after that it just swells up for the next 24 hrs or so.... farkin shithouse! It looks to be permanent so tiptro it is for the meantime.

I drove a 2000 mod stagea (tiptro) and didnt mind it at all, stagea was friggin heavy though! Like a boat.

Its either an R34 or a GT Subaru Forester...

Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
Posted

I luuurve my R34... so much nicer and newer than my R33 :thumbsup:

Can't tell you any issues cos it's been perfect, just look for a good clean one I guess!

happy to let you drive it, but it is a manual coupe so a bit different to what you're looking at buying. But seeing if you fit should be the same? I'm away for 2 weeks (leaving tomorrow) so it would have to be after that :P

putraged Rising Star

putraged

Posted
Posted

long drive is good. the only thing that trips me around is the unavailability of cruise control.

imagine putting ur right foot for 8 hrs of canberra - melbourne journey. been there done that.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted
so install aftermarket cruise control if you want it that badly.

I could have done with one when I drove to QLD, and also SA. Long straights, speed camera's and cops.

Been thinking about it for a while, but usually end up spending my $$$ on GFB's.

One day............one day..........

NJR 34GTT Proficient

NJR 34GTT

Posted
Posted

In no particular order. Some of my firsthand experiences and issues I've consistently read about over the years (I've had mine for 5 years now):

The tiptronic can be very slow on the upshift, even when you are intimately familiar with when it will and won't upshift smoothly. The downshift is nearly always very fast.

The tiptronic struggles with anything upwards of ~250kw atw without strengthening.

The coils will need replacing at some stage, but that's a given on most skylines.

Your choice of aftermarket ECUs is limited because many don't handle the tiptronic properly.

The insurance is a bitch even when you're bordering 30.

You will go through front brake pads like no tomorrow.

Check the middle brake light for signs of rust as water can and does get in there.

mrgilly Proficient

mrgilly

Posted
Posted
In no particular order. Some of my firsthand experiences and issues I've consistently read about over the years (I've had mine for 5 years now):

The tiptronic can be very slow on the upshift, even when you are intimately familiar with when it will and won't upshift smoothly. The downshift is nearly always very fast.

The tiptronic struggles with anything upwards of ~250kw atw without strengthening.

The coils will need replacing at some stage, but that's a given on most skylines.

Your choice of aftermarket ECUs is limited because many don't handle the tiptronic properly.

The insurance is a bitch even when you're bordering 30.

You will go through front brake pads like no tomorrow.

Check the middle brake light for signs of rust as water can and does get in there.

^^^

All sound advice! (with the exception of the brake pads comment, I've never noticed bad wear even with trackwork). Downshift slows down a little when the box heats up (think 40 degree day at QLD raceway... 51deg track temp!) but this isn't that common. Upshift isn't lightning but it's not bad, and a shift kit from MV Automatics will make your tiptronic day...

I've had 3 R34's, a tip coupe, a tip sedan and a manual coupe. All great cars to drive and own, highly recommend them for the sheer satisfaction of ownership :happy:

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks heaps for the comments ppl!

I will hopefully see a few at tomorrows ICU Cruise...

http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=55291692108&ref=ts

Shannons sad $1544 per year full comp value up to $15000, 26 y.o. no accident or all the good stuff

compared to an XR6, $900

pintaline Proficient

pintaline

Posted
Posted

get a stagea!!! i love mine... she's a little heavy on fuel around town but it still hasn't been tuned since it came from japan... but a power fc will fix that very soon (mine's a manual)

anyway, get one. they're getting nice and cheap now for autos and a 2wd one will be a little cheaper again. even the m35s are getting cheap, you can pick one up from around $20k, vq25 turbo......

a mate of mine got a GT-T 2 door, loves it but admitted to me the other day that it has no space for anything... unlike my car :P if the boot space in a 4 door is anywhere near similar to the 2 door, i wouldn't recommend it for travelling...

D.

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks for the comments

at the minute my total monthly expenses on this will be over budget, so i have to keep an eye out for something aussie delivered like a SV6, VRX, or XR6, also in the package at work they dont allow imports :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...