Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I've broken the stud that holds my timing belt tensioner in place and haven't been able to budge it. I've drilled through the centre of it and tried using an easy out but it won't move one bit. I'm going to try hitting it with some of that freezing spray tomorrow to see if that helps crack it, or maybe heat the block around it with once of those pencil blow torches but i'm not sure how successful this will be.

I've thought about welding something in there but there is very little surface area to get a decent weld. It doesn't help that the stud has snapped just below flush with the block either.

So has anyone got any ideas or suggestions that might help me get this stud out?

Cheers

Simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294006-another-broken-stud-thread/
Share on other sites

your in Dubbo so no thread doctor or spark erosion I'm guessing?

Try slowly increasing your drill size and using a dremel with a tungsten bit on it. Once you have it thinned right out, use a tap and re tap the hole [lots of swearing, beer and patience].

You need to get it thin so you can follow the same thread in when you re tap.

Yeah no thread doctor or anyone out here unfortunately! I miss canberra sometimes :(

With the dremel idea... won't that pose a significant risk of damaging the thread in the block? Something i'd rather avoid if possible. But i guess as a last resort I can give it a try.

I got a suggestion in a pm to try a proper stud remover instead of an ezi out so i might give that a crack if i can find one in my lunch break.

Yeah no thread doctor or anyone out here unfortunately! I miss canberra sometimes :D

With the dremel idea... won't that pose a significant risk of damaging the thread in the block? Something i'd rather avoid if possible. But i guess as a last resort I can give it a try.

I got a suggestion in a pm to try a proper stud remover instead of an ezi out so i might give that a crack if i can find one in my lunch break.

If its really stuck, be very careful not to snap an ezi out or hammer in stud remover off in your drilled hole cos then your up the creek........no drill or dremel will touch them [they will slowly and using heaps of them, but you'll end up gouging the thread and parent material because it is way softer than the ezi out metal].

I would use a bit of heat around the bolt hole. Oxy torch on low pressure would get better heat into it. I dont think a pencil blow torch will do the job but see how you go.

Otherwise from that do what the guy said above and step up your drill sizes and then re tap it. Either should work.

Find a nut suitable for a slightly smaller bolt than the broken bolt, weld it to the broken bolt (through the hole in the nut).

When its cold, undo with a socket.

I have never had method fail.

I thought he couldn't do this method, not enough exposed stud left, but I agree is works very good if you can do it.

only way you are going to get that out is what trident said and drill it out slowly and use a dremel to finish it off them tap it back out, doesnt matter if you slightly touch the thread with the dremel as there will be enough meat for the new bolt. a ezy out will bight into the original thread and you will snap it. heating it up is risky as it can harden the leftover bolt and when it does'nt work, will be a prick to drill. being a mechanical fitter of some 21 years i have seen my fair share of snapped bolts and that is the best way to do it.

Try a centre punch on the outer edge of the stud and rotate it. Don't use heat as you can damage/distort the surface of the block and it has to remain perfectly level. Also, don't use an easy out that is too big for the hole you have drilled as it will actually push the threads out against the block threads tighter.

Try the welding method mentioned above first. If it's bottomed out though you won't get the thing out, it'll tear the weld.

Just dont snap off an easy out in there or you are stuck with the erosion method.

If that fails then drill it out and helicoil it.

Edited by badhairdave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...