Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Took my car down to a workshop today to see what me car would need to get it to roadworthy status and was pretty much told they wouldnt even look at it unless i put a factory airbox back on it and a airbag steering wheel... so im pretty much screwed as these items weren't given to me when i purhased the car from the dealer.

So if anyone out there around Melbourne has a factory steering wheel and airbox they could lend for a rwc and i hook them up with some cans or cash ect for helping me out it would greatly be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294071-need-some-help-getting-a-roadworthy/
Share on other sites

there is a steering wheel on ebay, 18 hours left $120 buy it now

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Stagea-Steer...=item1c0d66f2b7

you should be able to find an airbox in the classifieds section

hope this helps

...Andy

Yeah seen that but not really willing to spend $150 with postage for a steering wheel im gonna use for one day and put my boss kit and aftermarket wheel back on...

yeah but it will save you the head f**k every time rego comes around

yeah but it will save you the head f**k every time rego comes around

Different rules in Vic, only need a RWC when selling or buying a vehicle :), in my case im selling it and a buyer is keen but would really like a roadworthy.

I left the road at only 90 to 100 km/hr and hit a culvert. Car (S1 Stagea) was written off - lh strut tower pushed back, roof buckled etc. I got out with a scratched elbow - very glad of my airbags thank you.

No joke isn't the new owner going to what an airbag'd wheel anyway?

Stag's with AM (non airbag) wheel FTL in my mind. Its a freakin wagon, seriously how much difference is it going to make? Understandable if you have a track stag or something...

I left the road at only 90 to 100 km/hr and hit a culvert. Car (S1 Stagea) was written off - lh strut tower pushed back, roof buckled etc. I got out with a scratched elbow - very glad of my airbags thank you.

+1

Not that I've crashed mine (and don't intend to!), but I'll be damned if I'm going to reduce the safety of my wagon.

See if you can get a momo airbag wheel, that should help with your style factor while keeping the car legal.

PS, that ebay wheel is from an S2, not a '96...

Unfortunately i recieved the car with the aftermarket wheel and a pod from the importers. The contract has a nice big black stamp on it stating the vehicle was purchased in stock form with no modifications which at the time I wasnt concerned about until now caus i cant get a roadworthy!

Edited by SHIZNT
Unfortunately i recieved the car with the aftermarket wheel and a pod from the importers. The contract has a nice big black stamp on it stating the vehicle was purchased in stock form with no modifications which at the time I wasnt concerned about until now caus i cant get a roadworthy!

bit late now but they would've had to make it legal for you if you'd picked up on it when you bought it. somehow they managed to get a roadworthy when they sold it to you...but dealers often "know someone" who does roadworthys.

if it were me i'd be paying to get the stock wheel and airbox back on...a couple hundred isn't that much to spend if it means getting a good price for the car. a sale is better than no sale...and a legal car is going to be a much more attractive item to potential buyers than an illegal one...

Post up in the for sale section WTB with what you are after. Best want to find stuff without going to the auctions IMO.

Im sure there will be a few ppl out there with stock airbox's and scoops sitting in there garage that they would love to get rid of as there a large item and a properly installed pod is legal in many states.

As for the wheel i'd be trying all of the jap wreckers.

i thought pods were legal as long as there were dry, wet filters are a fire hazard.

pods are legal, he must have a front mount too, ur only allowed to have one intake modification, my car went threw EPA and they said it was fine cause i stil had factory intercooler at the time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...