Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey lads.

im nearing the end of purchasing for my 26 build.. not 100% on how the valve train works and what is actually in there

so far i have got

tomie

cams

guides and

valve lifters

and apexi

springs and retainer

obviously still need valves but not sure on what else

any advise on what else is needed and if new from nissan would work or aftermarket is needed would be swell,

BTW dont have a power goal as such, just going to run a GT3582R at 25 pound, with the .8 rear

thanks

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294128-rebuilding-rb26-head/
Share on other sites

hey lads.

im nearing the end of purchasing for my 26 build.. not 100% on how the valve train works and what is actually in there

so far i have got

tomie

cams

guides and

valve lifters

and apexi

springs and retainer

obviously still need valves but not sure on what else

any advise on what else is needed and if new from nissan would work or aftermarket is needed would be swell,

BTW dont have a power goal as such, just going to run a GT3582R at 25 pound, with the .8 rear

thanks

Dan

stem seals and if you have to spend the cash cam cap studs.

What is wrong with the current head - ie what needs replacing?

A GT35 running 25psi won't even stress a factory head in good condition, so don't get too excited spending money everywhere as you won't see any benefit.

yeh went pro cams. 270 10.8

the reason i want to do the hole head is cos i got the motor with a loud noise and unknown history.. turned out the bottom end was fine no spun bearing or any thing like that, so thats been fully rebuilt and dont want to take any risks with the head so start from scratch there aswell..

i have read enough to no that i didnt need to go all out with the head but dont want to risk it, might as well do it right the first time

dan

If you do go the 1mm valves, make sur eu get the head ported by someone who has alot of experience and results, or u could go backwards.

Oversize valves sure makes it a hell of a lot easier to pick the seat up after fitting new guides...especially if the head has done a few miles and/or its been reco'd before...also makes the port job more effective and allows a nicer bowl shape.

  • 2 years later...

looks like arp has bulk fasteners on page 79, which are rated at 180ksi tensile strength. Looks like grade 12.9 fasteners are rated to 1220mpa or 177ksi tensile, so about the same as the arp stuff.

http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html

tomei lists their studs as SCM435 material. see if you can find the tensile strength of it, as I gotta run, and then compare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...