Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey lads.

im nearing the end of purchasing for my 26 build.. not 100% on how the valve train works and what is actually in there

so far i have got

tomie

cams

guides and

valve lifters

and apexi

springs and retainer

obviously still need valves but not sure on what else

any advise on what else is needed and if new from nissan would work or aftermarket is needed would be swell,

BTW dont have a power goal as such, just going to run a GT3582R at 25 pound, with the .8 rear

thanks

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294128-rebuilding-rb26-head/
Share on other sites

hey lads.

im nearing the end of purchasing for my 26 build.. not 100% on how the valve train works and what is actually in there

so far i have got

tomie

cams

guides and

valve lifters

and apexi

springs and retainer

obviously still need valves but not sure on what else

any advise on what else is needed and if new from nissan would work or aftermarket is needed would be swell,

BTW dont have a power goal as such, just going to run a GT3582R at 25 pound, with the .8 rear

thanks

Dan

stem seals and if you have to spend the cash cam cap studs.

What is wrong with the current head - ie what needs replacing?

A GT35 running 25psi won't even stress a factory head in good condition, so don't get too excited spending money everywhere as you won't see any benefit.

yeh went pro cams. 270 10.8

the reason i want to do the hole head is cos i got the motor with a loud noise and unknown history.. turned out the bottom end was fine no spun bearing or any thing like that, so thats been fully rebuilt and dont want to take any risks with the head so start from scratch there aswell..

i have read enough to no that i didnt need to go all out with the head but dont want to risk it, might as well do it right the first time

dan

If you do go the 1mm valves, make sur eu get the head ported by someone who has alot of experience and results, or u could go backwards.

Oversize valves sure makes it a hell of a lot easier to pick the seat up after fitting new guides...especially if the head has done a few miles and/or its been reco'd before...also makes the port job more effective and allows a nicer bowl shape.

  • 2 years later...

looks like arp has bulk fasteners on page 79, which are rated at 180ksi tensile strength. Looks like grade 12.9 fasteners are rated to 1220mpa or 177ksi tensile, so about the same as the arp stuff.

http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html

tomei lists their studs as SCM435 material. see if you can find the tensile strength of it, as I gotta run, and then compare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...