Jump to content
SAU Community

Track Report: Rota Rims And P-cup Slicks..


Recommended Posts

that's fair enough, just trying to show what good quality wheels can take, people need to understand the difference between low and high quality wheels, and understand the difference in terms of real life examples.

Hang on a minute. How can you speak for a quality of any wheel unless you have had it. You have never owned a Rota wheel, neither have i for that matter. I am going with Forgestar, not Rays or Volk but do you see me constantly beating my head against a brick wall trying to say something negative about a product i have never even seen?

Very immature posting from your end, and unless you can back up your posts with some of your own testing of these Rota wheels, i think its time to shut the f**k up.

I can punch letters into Google and bring millions of posts of all kind of failures but i wont, i go by using products myself before i open my big wide trap.

  • Replies 226
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hang on a minute. How can you speak for a quality of any wheel unless you have had it. You have never owned a Rota wheel, neither have i for that matter. I am going with Forgestar, not Rays or Volk but do you see me constantly beating my head against a brick wall trying to say something negative about a product i have never even seen?

Very immature posting from your end, and unless you can back up your posts with some of your own testing of these Rota wheels, i think its time to shut the f**k up.

I can punch letters into Google and bring millions of posts of all kind of failures but i wont, i go by using products myself before i open my big wide trap.

Well here's the great thing about information, it's quite versatile, it can in fact be learned and in fact passed between parties, you don't even have to experience it all first hand to acquire said information. Then once you possess this information, you can use it to directly influence your own actions, or even pass it on to another person to help them influence their actions.

See you now live in the time of the greatest information highway, the internet, where there are less and less excuses to be ignorant, i use information from around the world to form an opinion on something, then i pass that opinion onto others. Say what you want about the process, but it worked this time.

fact of the matter is nobody actually knows EXACTLY why the rotas cracked on my car. It's mostly piss and wind (even on my part). these arent the only rims that have cracked at the track, and they will not be the last.

fact of the matter is nobody actually knows EXACTLY why the rotas cracked on my car. It's mostly piss and wind (even on my part). these arent the only rims that have cracked at the track, and they will not be the last.

Its stress from weak materials and poor casting....but thats just piss and wind...untill you get yourself a 3rd opinion from an engineers perspective on how these failed, maybe you could go to a place here that does rims and pay their engineer for his opinion.

Or you could buy another pair with spacers and see how long they will last.

What did rota say?

Hey LSX,

I have a spare TE37 in 18x10.5+15 lying around somewhere in the garage. Come around and we can fit her on and see what the clearance is. I'm in Wahroonga.

At least you can see for yourself if the TE's are a better option for you. Fyi, I had them on my Z33 a few years ago with Endless 6 pot racing fronts and 370mm rotors and they had more than enough clearance.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b158/mxf...0954_resize.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b158/mxf...0960_resize.jpg

Hey LSX,

I have a spare TE37 in 18x10.5+15 lying around somewhere in the garage. Come around and we can fit her on and see what the clearance is. I'm in Wahroonga.

At least you can see for yourself if the TE's are a better option for you. Fyi, I had them on my Z33 a few years ago with Endless 6 pot racing fronts and 370mm rotors and they had more than enough clearance.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b158/mxf...0954_resize.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b158/mxf...0960_resize.jpg

Many thanks for that, the 15mm offset is for the rear, the calipers are smaller and there is no clearance issues on the rear. It's the front (25~30mm offset) which i need to try.

Many thanks for that, the 15mm offset is for the rear, the calipers are smaller and there is no clearance issues on the rear. It's the front (25~30mm offset) which i need to try.

Np mate, I have 18x9.5+30 (I think), if you want to try that out you're most welcome.

Well here's the great thing about information, it's quite versatile, it can in fact be learned and in fact passed between parties, you don't even have to experience it all first hand to acquire said information. Then once you possess this information, you can use it to directly influence your own actions, or even pass it on to another person to help them influence their actions.

See you now live in the time of the greatest information highway, the internet, where there are less and less excuses to be ignorant, i use information from around the world to form an opinion on something, then i pass that opinion onto others. Say what you want about the process, but it worked this time.

Well you can sit here and debate the atoms and molecules of products made in china and products SUPPOSEDLY made in Japan, because even though you seem well versed on the internet geek tactics, i can tell you SAFELY that most of your Japan made products are actually engineered in Japan and made in Taiwan as a blank item before it goes to Japan and the stickers and Logos get put on. And all this happens due to a confidentiality clause in the signed contract between the company and factory.

How i know this? Well im a stupid dumb ass that chooses not to sit on the internet but make money instead, because according to you people that can afford GTR's and the like are not smart just because they have money. So this dumb ass has actually travelled in these places and i know what happens.

Since your so smart go make your own money use the internet for something more than TIME WASTING and stop posting heresay instead get the product use it and then bitch about it and then show us that you have a brain not only to just talk shit but to also make money. Because according to you making money doesnt require a brain so you should be a gazillionaire in no time.

And instead of using sentences that i have to decipher why not be upfront with what your saying.

Oh and here are my cars, gtr uses Volk TE37 Progressive in 19x10.5 +15 and the Supra uses Work Seeker 18x9, 18x10 +15

P1020480-1.jpg

P1020744.jpg

So before you call me a cheap ass, ask me how much the rims on the gtr cost.

Edited by Adelaideprosound
So before you call me a cheap ass, ask me how much the rims on the gtr cost.

More than the combined value of both of his cars.

Or, Perhaps you could tell him they cost a gazillionty dollars and because he read it on the great super highway of information it will be an irrefutable truth.

More than the combined value of both of his cars.

Or, Perhaps you could tell him they cost a gazillionty dollars and because he read it on the great super highway of information it will be an irrefutable truth.

cool, keep up your theory of money buys smarts, it destroys any credibility you had for anyone with half a clue and in turn helps my argument.

Well you can sit here and debate the atoms and molecules of products made in china and products SUPPOSEDLY made in Japan, because even though you seem well versed on the internet geek tactics, i can tell you SAFELY that most of your Japan made products are actually engineered in Japan and made in Taiwan as a blank item before it goes to Japan and the stickers and Logos get put on. And all this happens due to a confidentiality clause in the signed contract between the company and factory.

How i know this? Well im a stupid dumb ass that chooses not to sit on the internet but make money instead, because according to you people that can afford GTR's and the like are not smart just because they have money. So this dumb ass has actually travelled in these places and i know what happens.

Since your so smart go make your own money use the internet for something more than TIME WASTING and stop posting heresay instead get the product use it and then bitch about it and then show us that you have a brain not only to just talk shit but to also make money. Because according to you making money doesnt require a brain so you should be a gazillionaire in no time.

And instead of using sentences that i have to decipher why not be upfront with what your saying.

Oh and here are my cars, gtr uses Volk TE37 Progressive in 19x10.5 +15 and the Supra uses Work Seeker 18x9, 18x10 +15

So before you call me a cheap ass, ask me how much the rims on the gtr cost.

oh, highimpact, k. lol

before you embarrass yourself, check ur facts, my last 2 wheels have been italian and german, built in germany and italy, not in taiwan, not in japan. before that? yes japanese, volk gt-p's, forged disk, spun rim, made at one of these locations (the forging factories)

Headquarters

7-11-12 Nagayoshi Deto, Hirano-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka

Yao factory

4-4-17 Minamikamei-cho, Yao-shi, Osaka

Second factory

2-3-15 Minaminocho, Atobe, Yao-shi, Osaka

Nara factory

Nara Kogyodanchi, Techno-park, Sumikawa-cho, Gojo-shi, Nara

i have no allegiances to japan, i base products on their own merit, hence my car is made up of parts from over 10 different countries. i agree that most wheels branded with japanese companies are built in china/taiwan, your point? rays are not built in a mass production chinese factory, cheap, with a bunch of other brands, they are built in-house in their own factories.

cool, keep up your theory of money buys smarts, it destroys any credibility you had for anyone with half a clue and in turn helps my argument.

Once again if you know anything about me, you will know that i dont give a toss about any kind of credibility on the interweb. Its full of people like you. As i said i am giving you an example of my two current cars, and what they have on them. Before that if i were to list the countless Work, Volk, BBS, Forgeline, CCW that i have had, bro i had more wheels than you had hot dinners.

And what i said SMART PEOPLE KNOW HOW TO MAKE MONEY hence the cars they drive, i didnt say THEIR MONEY BUYS THEM BRAINS.

So since your so smart why is your rear bumper falling off that 32. Isnt that dangerous.

And once again before you start sounding like an even bigger wanker, as i said i dare you to find one factory in Japan that doesnt outsource their product. Obviously they still have their factories but these days they are mainly used for quality control and sticking badges on the parts that come in from Taiwan.

And also since your so smart, Taiwan has a higher level of quality control than China, two different countries, China doesnt have a licence to build OEM brakes for cars whereas Taiwan has.

I think it may be an interesting test to see if the hardness of the front spokes have changed relative to the rears(or a new rim) easily tested non destructively. Maybe the heat of the brakes(which due to this only happening to the front wheels) has affected the heat treatment and made them brittle. Most cylinder head shops(NAS at thornleigh) have one for checking if heads have gone soft.

Once again if you know anything about me, you will know that i dont give a toss about any kind of credibility on the interweb. Its full of people like you. As i said i am giving you an example of my two current cars, and what they have on them. Before that if i were to list the countless Work, Volk, BBS, Forgeline, CCW that i have had, bro i had more wheels than you had hot dinners.

And what i said SMART PEOPLE KNOW HOW TO MAKE MONEY hence the cars they drive, i didnt say THEIR MONEY BUYS THEM BRAINS.

So since your so smart why is your rear bumper falling off that 32. Isnt that dangerous.

And once again before you start sounding like an even bigger wanker, as i said i dare you to find one factory in Japan that doesnt outsource their product. Obviously they still have their factories but these days they are mainly used for quality control and sticking badges on the parts that come in from Taiwan.

And also since your so smart, Taiwan has a higher level of quality control than China, two different countries, China doesnt have a licence to build OEM brakes for cars whereas Taiwan has.

firstly, look at who the money buying smarts post is directed at, FineLine. afaik, you're not FineLine.

2ndly, why are you trying to turn this into a pissing match? try and have an argument where you just argue your point, i dont care about how many wheels uve had, why is that relevant? from what it looks like, your basically saying that you only buy good brand wheels, if anything, shouldn't that make you on my side? lol

and no, the rear bar protruding from the standard position, but still being secured properly is not dangerous, relevance?

as far as taiwan vs china, ill have to quote from an earlier post in 2009:

taiwan is better than china, but its kind of like getting syphilis and being happy u didnt get aids.

yes taiwan is better, relevance?

as i said i dare you to find one factory in Japan that doesnt outsource their product.

thanks to a pm that was sent to me with this quote:

MADE in JAPAN

Decisive advantages result in winning wheels.

Complete confidence won from painstaking Japanese industrial skills.

Made in Japan is also integral to the decisive appeal of RAYS. It underlies confidence in RAYS wheels as winning wheels and drives the growth of RAYS in the aftermarket. Made in Japan creates more value than cost saving that might come from overseas production. Keeping production in Japan ensures speedy development, efficient decision making, and enables the management of the company to stay in tip-top condition. RAYS believes that Made in Japan will remain a decisive advantage through the coming generation.

RAYS possesses plenty of advanced forging equipment, including a world-leading 10,000-ton forging press. At the same time, to remarkably improve the performance of cast wheels, the company rapidly established patented wheel-making technologies such as RCF forming and RM8000 forging methods. Along with highly efficient manufacturing processes, these exclusive technologies have enabled the production of wheels with superior performance and extremely fine quality. RAYS can offer a variety of styles and sizes owing to its advanced technology and expertise. This has enabled RAYS forged wheels and sports cast wheels to establish a reputation as supreme products in the aftermarket for wheels. Besides taking pride in its Made in Japan policy, RAYS is also proud that, from design to manufacture, all its wheels are completely produced by RAYS. This goes for the company’s won brands and its OEM products. It is true for all types, from inexpensive cast wheels to custom-made forged magnesium wheels for racing.

RAYS is able to add so much value to its products because of the success of RAYS racing wheels and by employing exclusive methods at advanced production facilities maintained entirely within Japan. This has allowed the company to consolidate a system to stably supply the market and earn the trust of buyers ranging from end users to corporations.

summing up, you argued a point which wasnt directed at you, you then argued 3 completely irrelevant points, then you argued a point that's just completely factually untrue, and has just been proven wrong.

And once again you rely on pm and email. Man do you just beleive everything thats written, for gods sake.

Anyway what i am saying is, ur posting up photos of your cars and telling us how shit hot they are, i posted my cars to tell you im being unbiased towards any product. Hence why i am not here using my cars as an example to say Rota is shit. I dont know because i have never had a set.

And since your not old enough i remember the days when people used to say DONT BUY MADE IN JAPAN. How has that changed.

Once again i will try to bring my point across a little clearer, as a businessman that has travelled a lot take it from me anything you buy from Japan these days ask where its actually coming from. Because the company will always say that they make it, due to the fact they have signed confidentiality contracts with their manufacturers. I can go to Taiwan and buy you an identical product unbadged that also comes out of a Japanese tunings house, and can also test both products to show you they are the same right down to metal breakdown.

But anyway im arguing because your bagging the product but you know nothing about it.

Edited by Adelaideprosound
Anyway what i am saying is, ur posting up photos of your cars and telling us how shit hot they are

pics of my car? where? i posted a link to my cars to prove that i dont run copy items, as thats what i was being accused of. completely relevant.

And since your not old enough i remember the days when people used to say DONT BUY MADE IN JAPAN. How has that changed.

its changed because we are no longer at war with them... you being old enough as to remember that period, should also remember the reason people didnt buy products from japan were due to that little grudge we australians held from that whole killing each other and having our own soil bombed thing.

Once again i will try to bring my point across a little clearer, as a businessman that has travelled a lot take it from me anything you buy from Japan these days ask where its actually coming from. Because the company will always say that they make it, due to the fact they have signed confidentiality contracts with their manufacturers. I can go to Taiwan and buy you an identical product unbadged that also comes out of a Japanese tunings house, and can also test both products to show you they are the same right down to metal breakdown.

wow, weird, i guess all those big factories i saw in Japan are big fronts. yes a lot outsource to china and taiwan, to say they all do is naive however. even then, thats not to say all companies that outsource are shit, R&D, design and intellectual property play huge roles, but each product is different, each product requires different balances between design and manufacturing to achieve what is considered a quality product, wheels for example rely heavily on the manufacturing for the quality of the product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...