Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I've had the R35 for 6 months now. I've done eight rounds of the NSW Sprint Championship and about five practice days. The car has run faultlessly over those 13 track days thus far. The final NSW Supersprint round was wound up a couple of weeks back, somehow I ended up with the State Title outright, thanks to this exceptional road car.

For anyone interested, here is the score card for the 2009 NSW Sprint series:

Round 1 - Did not run, waiting for GTR to be delivered!

Round 2 - Oran Park GP - 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.17.34) 2nd for Outright points

Round 3 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1:05:35) 2nd for Outright points

Round 4 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1:46.75) 10th for Outright points

Round 5 -

- 1st in Type and Class, 2nd for Outright points

Round 6 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.16.90) 3rd for Outright points

Round 7 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.44.80) 3rd for Outright points

Round 8 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.16.76) 4th for Outright points

Round 9 -

- 1st in Type and Class, FTD (46.37) 1st for Outright Points

Leading into round 9, I was a single point behind the outright leader Jason Hart. In order to win, with just one round remaining, I needed a two point outright win over Jason for the last round, to avoid a tie with Jason and subsequent countback (where he would have won). Given i had already won my type and class for the year, i took the advantage to run slicks, a tune and reduced weight (removed front and rear pax seats). Thus effectively switching classes - running in type SV with slicks - thus falling into Type 4 - hopefully maximising my chances for outright points in a last ditch grab to secure the outright Championship. It was a bit of a long shot that paid off....

Result: I was lucky enough to finish fastest on the day! with Stuart Inwood running second, and Jason Hart third, thus yielding a single point margin ahead of Jason to win the NSW Championship outright. I couldnt believe it.

Special thanks o the following who supported me throughout the season:

Willall Racing

Martin put together a good package on his Tranmission fluid and mid-pipe earlier in the year to get me started. Then followed up at the final round (where i could run ECU mods) with his RPM based WGDC control tune to provide the edge on power (yet delivered in a linear fashion) perfect for my circuit racing application. Results speak for themselves, thanks Martin.

Russo Performance and Big Banger Lautray

For help with those fiddly jobs requiring a hoist (mid-pipe and transmission fluid swap) Russo provided readines to help support a sap like me hack up a new R35 - greatly appreciated guys! And Erik, massive thanks for all your support throughout the year man, awesome, i value your mateship and support. Jeez, who else would help pull apart the R35 hubs at midnight leading up to a track day?

Donnellans Tyres Box Hill, Otomoto Wheels and Joel!

Donnellans for the Enkies and good supply of RE55's (sometimes an issue getting supply of those).. good prices, always delivered on time. Donnellans are the biggest Bridgestone dealer in the country. Tyres are the No.1 modification in my book. Thanks to Otomoto for getting those Rota rims in too, they paid off, despite the nay sayers. And special thanks to Joel for getting me those p-cup slicks as well, cheers mate. They played a key role, and will next year i think. Now, get me a couple dozen more! (please?)

Wholesale Suspension Penrith

Matt and Luke devised a clever option to modify front suspension bushes to yield a further -1* of negative camber on the R35. They also looked after my setup all season, thanks guys! Sorry i didnt put a credit in the last video, it slipped my mind (will edit asap, promise!). A steak dinner is coming your way Matt.

VSport Sydney

Supply of Rotors, Pads, wheel studs/nuts, brake and diff fluids etc. John Healey at VSport has often gone BEYOND the call to get parts and fluids to me at the last minute. Critical support yet again, thanks John.

What next?

Dunno! More track days i suppose. Currently digesting the 2010 season rules which were released this last weekend.

Moral of the story: good example showing just how solid and robust the R35 actually is, capable of dealing with many repeated track assults, faultlessly and almost effortlessly.

Great car!

Edited by LSX-438
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294590-6-months-the-r35-and-13-track-days/
Share on other sites

Round 1 - Did not run, waiting for GTR to be delivered!

Round 2 - Oran Park GP - 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.17.34) 2nd for Outright points

Round 3 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1:05:35) 2nd for Outright points

Round 4 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1:46.75) 10th for Outright points

Round 5 -

- 1st in Type and Class, 2nd for Outright points

Round 6 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.16.90) 3rd for Outright points

Round 7 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.44.80) 3rd for Outright points

Round 8 -

- 1st in Type and Class, new lap record (1.16.76) 4th for Outright points

Round 9 -

- 1st in Type and Class, FTD (46.37) 1st for Outright Points

Top effort, love it...

PS> I read the thread while the video was playing, so all I could hear was the car while reading...

Guessing they are restricting you next season?

Must feel good to achieve such results in a new car. Any targa plans?

In general the AWD Turbo rules have been revised for 2010 yes. I suppose to tighten up the competition a bit, which is fair enough i suppose. I didnt realise the R35 would have enough speed to run towards the pointy end. Great road/track car, despite it's elephant proportions and hefty 1700+ kegs.

Probably time to send through a transmission oil sample LSX-438, or even perform an 'over summer' changeout of the fluid. After all you would be up to about 100 litres of the factory GR6 brew by now :P

Good point, i wonder how many times i would have had to switch our the stocker gr6 fluid. Although i am very careful to keep the temps down (manageable with only 3 or 4 hot laps for SS format) and i always spend extra time cooling the car afterwards too. I am not sure i want to know what floaty bits are in the tranny fluid. Time for a fluid refresh though.

  • 3 months later...
Duncan

I am in the process of buying some Enkei wheels with some Dunlop Direzza 295/35/18's.Did you use any spacers when you used your wheels? Did everything fit ok?

Regards

Mark.

The enkei gtc01 18x10 with a 22mm offset fits fine. It will stick out in the front and in on the back. You could put a 15mm spacer on the back to even it out a bit. It doesnt look the best but it works. Heaps of caliper clearance on these rims (the best of ANY 18" you will find).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...