Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, I'll be moving to Canberra next year to do my Federal training, and overseas deployment with the army, so no good rocking up in a skyline, and it's time to let her go ;)

it has about 83,000kms on the clock, i have own the car for over 3 and half years now, car was picked up from a top importer back in late 2006, it was completely factory, over the years i have spend over 15g on it, parts and labour, have all receipts to proof, and now it's pushing 298rwk with 20psi on the rear.

The final built was done a couple of month ago at dahtone racing (www.dahtoneracing.com), and has been always serviced regularly.

>Modifications<

Enigne:

Factory RB25NEOdet (83,000kms)

Tomei exhaust/inlet cams (6,000kms)

GT3540 0.62 rear (6,000kms)

Greddy external wastegate (6.000kms)

6boost custom manifold (6,000kms)

Plazamana polished Plenum (6,000kms)

Custom dump pipe (6,000kms)

Custom Turbo back exhaust from dump pipe to catback,

with Fujitsubo 4' exhaust to canon (6,000kms)

Z32 Air flow meter (20,000kms)

Splitfire coilpack (20,000kms)

PFC + Hand controller (20,000kms)

Professional coloured coated engine cover(purple in cover to match the car)

Chromed coilpack cover with 'R34 NEO' embedded

Fueling:

Deatschwerks highflow 555cc injectors (6,000kms)

Bosch 255p/h fuel pump (20,000kms)

Sard adjustable fuel regulator

Oil catch can

Cooling:

Hybrid Front mount intercooler (30,000kms)

Hybrid radiator (6,000kms)

Sard relocatable oil cooler (30,000kms)

Suspension + Braking

Adjustable Tein Superstreet coilvers (20,000kms)

Front Sway bar

RDA slotted rotors, front and rear with red stuff brake pads (6,000kms)

Brake cylinder stopper (6,000kms)

Nismo Short shifter (20,000kms)

Rims

Weds sport SA-90 17" 8.5 front, 9.5 rear with Federal RS's 225/40 front and Toyo T1R 245/40 rear

Interior+exterior

Genuine C-west CF bonnet

Genuine C-west CF eyelids

Smoked Nismo front + side indicators

Defi green gauges (Boost, Water, Oil temp)

Defi control unit (adjust gauge settings )

PFC hand controller

HKS dual boost controller (7psi, 20psi)

Sony Cd player

Rockforsgate splits front and 6.9 rear (6,000kms)

Pioneer 4 channel amp

Cadence Xenith monoblock

2x10 Rockforsgate subs

and I'm sure there are more things in there that's worth mentioning that i've forgotten about.

Number plater 'YF.34.RR' (WHY FEAR) will come with the car

Price : 27k

Open for swaps, let me know what you got, interested in MPS, Golf, RX-8.. but pm me, you never know!

Contact : Albert 0411887820 or Pm

Cheers

img64422smallxz7-1.jpg

IMG_5083copy-2.jpg

IMG_5215.jpg

PB020360.jpg

scan0001-1.jpg

PB020357.jpg

IMG_0589.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294613-fs-300rkw-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My favourite GTT. If this thing doesnt sell by January (Im sure someone will snap this bargain up quickly, but just in case), I am happy to pay top $$$ to take it off your hands. Need to wait until I get my fulls!!

This is a great car, the centre of attention at all the cruises I have been to!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
My favourite GTT. If this thing doesnt sell by January (Im sure someone will snap this bargain up quickly, but just in case), I am happy to pay top $$$ to take it off your hands. Need to wait until I get my fulls!!

This is a great car, the centre of attention at all the cruises I have been to!

Time to buy it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...