Jump to content
SAU Community

Piston Type Bov's

Get EPIC

By Get EPIC,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Get EPIC Rising Star

Get EPIC

Posted
Posted

Hi all.Just had a few mods done to my r33 and decided to change Bov as it was causing strange lag issues on full boost on gear changes.Have tried 3 different piston type BOV's and have had bad compressor surge with Both the turbosmart v-port and the blitz supersound and a tiny little bit of flutter with a cheapo chinese unit i picked up from rolin imports on the gold coast which has performed the best out of the three.Do piston type bov release as quickly as the stock units or has my mechanic not hooked up the vacuum fitting to the manifold correctly or is it maybe something else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294860-piston-type-bovs/
Share on other sites
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
Have adjusted all of them as loose as they can go.Thanks.

Stop wasting your money on turbosmart crap and alot of the popular wanker brands - none of them work. If you are still running a MAF based system and you dont care about the wanker sound than get a steel top EVO9 BOV - it is a proper valve style BOV that actually opens under around 10" of vacuum as a BOV is meant to. It has to plumb back tho.

I remember testing a turbo smart item that didn't budged at all with 26" of vacuum with it loose as it will go.

I couldn't believe the difference an EVO9 BOV made on my car - no MAF reversion issues and so much quicker onto boost after a gear change.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

a valve type type BOV (ie a proper one like a trust type R etc) will always be better than the cheap ones that just have a piston inside a tube. better reaction and generally better flow/bypass capability.

juggernaut1 Proficient

juggernaut1

Posted
Posted (edited)

I agree with all of your comments. I have a Turbosmart raceport bov on my car and its crap.

Firstly there is no spring tension adjustment on the BOV (which I found out after buying it)....so the only way to adjust them is with a spring kit......so I bought a spring kit and tried different springs...basically its still useless as I either get surge on a stiff spring or it won't close on idle with a weaker spring.

Having done a bit of reasearch in the past I decided I was going to get a Trust Type R bov becuase of its valve design......and now the Evo 9 Bov sounds promissing too.

Edited by juggernaut1
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

type R is good for plumb back too. :D and it's easily adjustable (and can be ordered from the factory with a stiffer spring kit too) and it will flow as much as you will ever need (well pretty much). It's pretty much the only decent properly made BOV out there. there are some good mega drag 1200hp type ones but they are not really suitable for most of us. just looking at the trust one should tell you it's the one you want, it looks like a wastegate in it's design which is what you want. fast response, good sealing under boost and at idle, and able to quickly bypass large amounts of air. :P

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

How the trust one is any better than a GTR one i'll never know.

I mean yeah if you are into nice shiny stuff i can understand... but otherwise the GTR BOV does the same job as anything else, and is half the price.

If you use a single one, it's cheaper again!

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
type R is good for plumb back too. :D and it's easily adjustable (and can be ordered from the factory with a stiffer spring kit too) and it will flow as much as you will ever need (well pretty much). It's pretty much the only decent properly made BOV out there. there are some good mega drag 1200hp type ones but they are not really suitable for most of us. just looking at the trust one should tell you it's the one you want, it looks like a wastegate in it's design which is what you want. fast response, good sealing under boost and at idle, and able to quickly bypass large amounts of air. :(

You do realise that a good BOV will be open below 10" of vacuum - so it will be open at idle unless you have big cams, thats why you need to plumb them back in a MAF based system. A well designed valve style BOV will have a larger diaphram area than valve area so that the spring force is unnecessary as there is more pressure force on top of the valve than below.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

They are good at making annoying noises?

Other than that, nothing beats stock.

If anyone has a GTR BOV for sale iwould like to buy one.I put this in the WTB section last week and it seems they are a bit hard to come by. :(

I've got one i think in my back seat, PM me if you want it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...