Jump to content
SAU Community

High Boost Blow Off Valves

Tomei_Powered

By Tomei_Powered,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tomei_Powered Rising Star

Tomei_Powered

Posted
Posted

What BOV are you guys running for high boost settings? eg. 1.7bar-2bar?

Currently i am having issues with my BOVs. I have a HKS SSQV which is shyt and now my Greedy Type RS is giving me issues as well..

One time the RS had its valve stuck open and HKS had always have problem with stalling.

I dont have much confidence in these 2 brands now and im worried it might destroy my compressor shaft if i continue running on those BOVs.

I am serching for something more dependable and I was wondering are Tial BOVs any good?

Another question.

Do you guys run two BOVs at the intercooler to intake or one on each side of intercooler?

What spring rates?

Comments and feedbacks are most welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295386-high-boost-blow-off-valves/
Share on other sites
daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted (edited)

While we are on the subject of BOV's I'd like to ask about location of them.

I was under the impression the best place was as close to the throttle body as possible. That way, when the throttle closes and the BOV opens the majority of the charge air continues flowing in the same direction.

The other day I was looking on the turbobygarrett website and it stated the best place for the BOV was as close to the compressor outlet as practical. To me this doesn't make sense as all the charge air in the pipes/intercooler has to reverse flow to exit the BOV.

On RB's the standard BOV is pretty close to the thottle. And from what I can recall, on SR20's the BOV is located near the throttle and the return pipe crosses back over to the other side of the engine to get back to the compressor inlet.

In both cases (and you see this alot in aftermarket piping kits) the BOV is usually located on the hot pipe, next to the compressor inlet in order to shorten the return pipe.

Edited by daisu
  • 3 months later...
Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

digging up an old thread rather than starting a new one.

and not 'quite' the same question but here goes,

Has anyone ran GTR Bov's Pre cooler?

I've finally sourced some 33 GTR Bovs, and I was wondering if I could place them Beofre the cooler, as this will make the return to the intake a heck of a lot shorter/simpler. If I mount them in the same position as the GTR, I've got to run a 2" return pipe all the way from the cooler exit right back to the intake pipe. And the factory plastic return wont work with my custom piping/cooler setup.

I'm olny concerned as I know the GTR Bov's have the rubber/plastic seat and I'm worried about them melting due to the added heat being plumbed in pre cooler compared the the factory 'after the cooler'.

cheers

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Would like some info in this.. possibly a pm to me would be real nice if you have the time?

I suspect mine is leaking.. How do you know if yours has the soft spring or the other one? how do you have it hooked up? do you have both lines connected or just the one?

ive played around with mine for ages....

I ran a Greddy type R with the soft spring at around 1.9 bar with no problems.
XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

+3 For stock GTR BOV's

28psi and no leaks...

As for swapping from aftermarket to GTR ... Stock, the GTR BOV's are open at idle, so make shure you plumb them back before the AFM- or put filters on them for MAP sensor cars.

Melt??? I doubt it. They're so cheap to replace I wouldn't worry about it.

I think it was Nizpro that used to use them for boost controll... Good bit of kit!

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

Yes I know they open at idle, so yep making new intake to accommodate the return pipe.

I was only concerned they would melt as they will see heat they were never going to see mounted after the cooler. And if they did happen to fail I had visions of crap (Hard plastic) finding its way back to the intake and into my comp wheel..... I've had a look at the plastic, its looks pretty sturdy stuff tho.

I'm not expecting it to happen, I'm sure nissan built them to take 10 times the heat they were ever going to see. But it doesn't cost to ask, and maybe avoid a potential headache.

and as for cheap, not really - and thats when you can get them.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I run GTR BOV's pre-cooler.

I have a backpressure problem that i'm sorting out, we think it's due to the cooler piping bends and chamber changes made a while ago. (been tested, so its 100% something that was changed)

So they blow open over 16psi, but otherwise no issue and they will be perfectly fine pre-cooler. Just a bastard to fit them there :D

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

I suspected you would run them pre cooler on the 31, I think I sent you a PM but maybe it didnt send.

I think I've got it nutted out, Took me awhile tho.

I'll post up some pics once I'm done

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You might well have - i've got ... to many atm.

Need to sit down for 2-3 hours and go through them all... avoiding it :D

I did have a single BOV before cooler, but now with 2x its pre-cooler. It's not very "clean", a tad messy looking but works fine.

I have a split A/C setup (factory nissan) so i couldnt put them on the drivers side unfortunately, not quite enough room otherwise post cooler they would have gone.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted
What BOV are you guys running for high boost settings? eg. 1.7bar-2bar?

Currently i am having issues with my BOVs. I have a HKS SSQV which is shyt and now my Greedy Type RS is giving me issues as well..

One time the RS had its valve stuck open and HKS had always have problem with stalling.

I dont have much confidence in these 2 brands now and im worried it might destroy my compressor shaft if i continue running on those BOVs.

I am serching for something more dependable and I was wondering are Tial BOVs any good?

Another question.

Do you guys run two BOVs at the intercooler to intake or one on each side of intercooler?

What spring rates?

Comments and feedbacks are most welcome.

1.8bar. bog stock 32gtr bov's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...