Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Conversation between Tom and another skyline enthusiast:

Tom: Guess what i bought on the weekend?

Skyline Enthusiast: Turbo?

T: No

SE: Injectors?

T: No

SE: Exhaust?

T: No

SE: RIMS?????

T: No..give up?

SE: YES!!!!!!

T: Maserati!!!!!

SE: :D

I must admit Tom, that is a very impressive piece of machinery you have there. Hopefully i'll see it round!

Edited by Black Widow

Aaron i'm curious about the output at the wheels aswell, meant to be 270kw and 500nm of torque standard, to put it in perspective a Ferrari 360 modena f1 is meant to be 297kw and 394nm of torque. (i'm hanging out for sau dyno day)

Still no match for the R35 gtr with its electronics. But a GTR doesn't sound like this.

Once I figure out if they use ceramic turbos or not, then I can figure out how to raise the boost level lol ( i wonder if there is a ecu tune for it?), throw in a better breathing exhaust, see if i can squeeze a bigger intercooler into it lol.

And Nick, the convo might go like that, only change is i bought the car on the monday and not the weekend lol

hahah chris, why not.

An your right dave, that type of money would make my r33 faster than anything... But it wouldn't be the same, and it definately wouldn't be very street friendly, trust me i already thought of that, and i thought of R34 gtr aswell, but nothing really sounds like this, nor is it this easy to drive fast, although r35 gtr is faster and easier to drive, but its alittle over double the price, no hassel with the cops, insurance, (parts may be alittle pricey and harder to get).

Look at the youtube link and if you have subs on your pc you can hear it rumble, then you get the turbo's and bovs doing there thing.... still my crappy phone microphone cannot capture the sound of it.

Aaron i'm curious about the output at the wheels aswell, meant to be 270kw and 500nm of torque standard, to put it in perspective a Ferrari 360 modena f1 is meant to be 297kw and 394nm of torque. (i'm hanging out for sau dyno day)

Still no match for the R35 gtr with its electronics. But a GTR doesn't sound like this.

Once I figure out if they use ceramic turbos or not, then I can figure out how to raise the boost level lol ( i wonder if there is a ecu tune for it?), throw in a better breathing exhaust, see if i can squeeze a bigger intercooler into it lol.

And Nick, the convo might go like that, only change is i bought the car on the monday and not the weekend lol

:):):D

Well played

What a nugget :)

Nice buy Tom!

20 mins ago i found the traction control button, deactivated it and lost all rear traction lol, I immediately had a vision of you at the last op day you went to as you went close to the wall lol.

Still thinking of you matt lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...