Jump to content
SAU Community

Na, Nos, Turbo Or Vh45k?

n33d4sp33d

By n33d4sp33d,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

n33d4sp33d Newbie

n33d4sp33d

Posted
Posted

Hi all

I hope you guys are able to help me, I currently own a 1998 R34 RB25DE auto with POD and CAI with Coby header and custom full exhaust (no Cat) currenlty it 103KW@105km.

I am planning the next stage of my project however I am not sure whats best way going forward so my question to this forum as follows

Current my plans

1.Upgrade the brakes and LSD diff is to use R33 turbo brakes and diff

2.Upgrade to Fuel pump to R34 turbo model

3.Install tran, Oil and Power steer coolers

4.Stage2 shift kit for auto

My goal for this project is to have bulletproof setup and street driveability rather standard goal of outright power so my question to this forum, is which is better setup, kept it NA, NOS, turbo or install a vh45de.

<h1 id="query_h1" class="query_h1">

</h1><h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading">

</h1>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295823-na-nos-turbo-or-vh45k/
Share on other sites
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Stage 2 Shift Kit provided your gearbox is in good condition.

Mine was flaring a bit, then when I done the turbo conversion it showed its true flaring nature. Once I bumped the boost up, well lets just say the gearbox specialist found metal debris in the gearbox pan and 3rd gear was just about gone.

If your gearbox is in good condition, a shift kit will help strengthen it and improve shifts. If it's not, it will prematurely #*%# the gearbox.

Turbo model brakes make for a good upgrade. Might as well change the brake lines as well if they're in not so great condition. Brake West in Victoria can hook you up with lines to suit that are ADR Approved Braided Stainless Steel.

As for fuel pump, I would go with a new pump and get say a Walbro GSS342. They're replacement pumps, good for 500HP (might be 550HP, can't remember of the top of my head right now) If you're looking at pushing that much juice though then you "may" need to look at injectors. GTT Injectors are straight replacements. You will need GTT injectors for an R34 unless you do a custom fuel rail as they're top feed but different to GTR injectors.

If you want decent power without a turbo, than the RB isn't the best without investing a LOT of money for comparable results.

When you say turbo, are you talking an N/A+t set up? or an engine swap?

If you do an N/A+t, ensure your R34 GT Gearbox is in good condition, get the box strengthened! or swap and shift kit a GTT box. Get a transmission cooler (I'm yet to get one). Oil Cooler (a must, mines yet to go in). Ensure your intake temps are cool with the right intercooler and CAI set up. Combined with the turbo brakes and LSD should make for a great daily driver. Driveability will be nice and responsive too.

On the note of driveability over outright power... have you done handling and suspension mods?

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

Bulletproof setup for street drivability?

Sell the car and buy a GTT. The faffing about required to either +T your DE, or even do a DET engine swap, and get it OEM reliable is more than the financial hit from selling your car and buying another one.

The GT-T is more than just the engine. Gearing, cooling, brakes, etc all add up cost- and complexity-wise. If you want a "bulletproof" fast car, get one that came from the factory (with a warranty) fast. Then do light bolt-ons on that.

Nitrous is a waste of time for drivability. You have to keep the bottle warm and purge before you use it, and it runs out too quick.

A VH45DE conversion would be cool, but it would take a shitload of effort.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Depends on your budget.

1. If you have the $$$ right now - go straight to a GT-T, then spend on the mods. Less hassles.

2. If your budget is not that much and you want to keep the car - I wouldn't bother spending much more on "power up mods", just on supporting mods to make the car more reliable when you drive it hard. Oil and trans coolers. Premium oils and fluids. Also focus on handling if you can stretch your budget a little.

3. de+t setup - Would only be in your favour if you have spent lots of money on the car already or if you just want something different. Reliability should not be an issue as I imagine your are going for something conservative, but be prepared to spend more in comparison to a straight GT-T.

Your current setup is not too bad - personally I'd get the trans done, add the oil and trans coolers - should be good.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

vh45de conversion, plus turbo, plus NOS. now that would be awesome, LOL

but in all seriousness, i would just sell it and get a gt-t. for what you could sell your car for you could probably just buy a gt-t since NA's go for more now due to the P plate restrictions. then just put an exhaust on it (if it doesn't have 1 already) and wind the boost up a bit and you will have a fast car that drives well on the street. certainly the cheapest option too.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted

pfft vq35de with 6 throttles, how is that better than a vh45? the only thing it has going for it is a superior valve train and slightly better weight distribution which unless you track your car on a regular basis isn't going to mean squat ! =)

If you can affoard it and like the challenge of diy, go the vh45! If you really want to go turbo, then I suggest what others have said and just sell up and buy a turbo. Best of luck!

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

sell it buy a turbo :sick: The NA cars have weak boxes, crap brakes and require more money to make decent power than it would take to buy a R34 GTT

the VH45 aint a flash engine, prick to fit and at the end of the day the same effort could be put towards fitting a 1UZFE (far better engine) better aftermarket support (chargers, ecu's and if your keen internals)

TBH NOS is our first choice for NA r34's as its cheap and effective and has no lasting drawbacks.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted
sell it buy a turbo :dry: The NA cars have weak boxes, crap brakes and require more money to make decent power than it would take to buy a R34 GTT

the VH45 aint a flash engine, prick to fit and at the end of the day the same effort could be put towards fitting a 1UZFE (far better engine) better aftermarket support (chargers, ecu's and if your keen internals)

TBH NOS is our first choice for NA r34's as its cheap and effective and has no lasting drawbacks.

The 1UZ isn't a better engine than the VH45, the only superior thing about a 1UZ would be the late model ones with VVTI... Aftermarket support, I guess you've got me beaten there though :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...