Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I hope you guys are able to help me, I currently own a 1998 R34 RB25DE auto with POD and CAI with Coby header and custom full exhaust (no Cat) currenlty it 103KW@105km.

I am planning the next stage of my project however I am not sure whats best way going forward so my question to this forum as follows

Current my plans

1.Upgrade the brakes and LSD diff is to use R33 turbo brakes and diff

2.Upgrade to Fuel pump to R34 turbo model

3.Install tran, Oil and Power steer coolers

4.Stage2 shift kit for auto

My goal for this project is to have bulletproof setup and street driveability rather standard goal of outright power so my question to this forum, is which is better setup, kept it NA, NOS, turbo or install a vh45de.

<h1 id="query_h1" class="query_h1">

</h1><h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading">

</h1>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295823-na-nos-turbo-or-vh45k/
Share on other sites

Stage 2 Shift Kit provided your gearbox is in good condition.

Mine was flaring a bit, then when I done the turbo conversion it showed its true flaring nature. Once I bumped the boost up, well lets just say the gearbox specialist found metal debris in the gearbox pan and 3rd gear was just about gone.

If your gearbox is in good condition, a shift kit will help strengthen it and improve shifts. If it's not, it will prematurely #*%# the gearbox.

Turbo model brakes make for a good upgrade. Might as well change the brake lines as well if they're in not so great condition. Brake West in Victoria can hook you up with lines to suit that are ADR Approved Braided Stainless Steel.

As for fuel pump, I would go with a new pump and get say a Walbro GSS342. They're replacement pumps, good for 500HP (might be 550HP, can't remember of the top of my head right now) If you're looking at pushing that much juice though then you "may" need to look at injectors. GTT Injectors are straight replacements. You will need GTT injectors for an R34 unless you do a custom fuel rail as they're top feed but different to GTR injectors.

If you want decent power without a turbo, than the RB isn't the best without investing a LOT of money for comparable results.

When you say turbo, are you talking an N/A+t set up? or an engine swap?

If you do an N/A+t, ensure your R34 GT Gearbox is in good condition, get the box strengthened! or swap and shift kit a GTT box. Get a transmission cooler (I'm yet to get one). Oil Cooler (a must, mines yet to go in). Ensure your intake temps are cool with the right intercooler and CAI set up. Combined with the turbo brakes and LSD should make for a great daily driver. Driveability will be nice and responsive too.

On the note of driveability over outright power... have you done handling and suspension mods?

Bulletproof setup for street drivability?

Sell the car and buy a GTT. The faffing about required to either +T your DE, or even do a DET engine swap, and get it OEM reliable is more than the financial hit from selling your car and buying another one.

The GT-T is more than just the engine. Gearing, cooling, brakes, etc all add up cost- and complexity-wise. If you want a "bulletproof" fast car, get one that came from the factory (with a warranty) fast. Then do light bolt-ons on that.

Nitrous is a waste of time for drivability. You have to keep the bottle warm and purge before you use it, and it runs out too quick.

A VH45DE conversion would be cool, but it would take a shitload of effort.

Depends on your budget.

1. If you have the $$$ right now - go straight to a GT-T, then spend on the mods. Less hassles.

2. If your budget is not that much and you want to keep the car - I wouldn't bother spending much more on "power up mods", just on supporting mods to make the car more reliable when you drive it hard. Oil and trans coolers. Premium oils and fluids. Also focus on handling if you can stretch your budget a little.

3. de+t setup - Would only be in your favour if you have spent lots of money on the car already or if you just want something different. Reliability should not be an issue as I imagine your are going for something conservative, but be prepared to spend more in comparison to a straight GT-T.

Your current setup is not too bad - personally I'd get the trans done, add the oil and trans coolers - should be good.

vh45de conversion, plus turbo, plus NOS. now that would be awesome, LOL

but in all seriousness, i would just sell it and get a gt-t. for what you could sell your car for you could probably just buy a gt-t since NA's go for more now due to the P plate restrictions. then just put an exhaust on it (if it doesn't have 1 already) and wind the boost up a bit and you will have a fast car that drives well on the street. certainly the cheapest option too.

pfft vq35de with 6 throttles, how is that better than a vh45? the only thing it has going for it is a superior valve train and slightly better weight distribution which unless you track your car on a regular basis isn't going to mean squat ! =)

If you can affoard it and like the challenge of diy, go the vh45! If you really want to go turbo, then I suggest what others have said and just sell up and buy a turbo. Best of luck!

sell it buy a turbo :sick: The NA cars have weak boxes, crap brakes and require more money to make decent power than it would take to buy a R34 GTT

the VH45 aint a flash engine, prick to fit and at the end of the day the same effort could be put towards fitting a 1UZFE (far better engine) better aftermarket support (chargers, ecu's and if your keen internals)

TBH NOS is our first choice for NA r34's as its cheap and effective and has no lasting drawbacks.

sell it buy a turbo :dry: The NA cars have weak boxes, crap brakes and require more money to make decent power than it would take to buy a R34 GTT

the VH45 aint a flash engine, prick to fit and at the end of the day the same effort could be put towards fitting a 1UZFE (far better engine) better aftermarket support (chargers, ecu's and if your keen internals)

TBH NOS is our first choice for NA r34's as its cheap and effective and has no lasting drawbacks.

The 1UZ isn't a better engine than the VH45, the only superior thing about a 1UZ would be the late model ones with VVTI... Aftermarket support, I guess you've got me beaten there though :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...