Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i'll be coming in for a look on friday afternoon, i'll have to catch up with some people while i'm there

Oh awesome!! If you dont see me out and about..please come say hi up in the control tower..Ring me if you have any problems!

I know....Counting down the days

Basically all next week is going to be SUPERLAP WEEK.....EPIC I think YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup::(:)

Yeah, i don't think i'll get much done at work next week! Going to be buggered from the flight, but i'm sure the cars will make up for it. :D

Yeah, I'm not even remotely excited!

Big news too everyone, Mark Berry's lovely wife Fi is having twins today.... :( MArk's pumped, lil boy and lil girl. Good package deal I reckon :(

Wow, i can only imagine how hectic his life must be at the moment. Haha. Must be a very understanding wife!

^^ I reckon that is a good starting point for lap times. Are you talking about the fastest car in each class with those times?

There are alot of street registered cars with plenty of mumbo, they could get down to a 1:44 in Club class.

Sub 1:40 should be achievable in Open class and I think we may even see a 1:30 in Pro class

Perhaps the Club class goal of 1:44 is too low?

I've done a 1:49 there on semi's with 190rwk's in my Silvia so maybe 1:48 is more realistic? I don't know what type of power and mods the best of the club class cars have?

Any ideas on who might be at the top in Club class? Any specs or details on the favourite in Club Class?

Only time will tell......

i'm with marlin. if track is good 1:32 will win pro. if tracks off it could be as 'slow' as a 1:34. so maybe middle ground of a 33 will be on the money. eastern creek does vary a bit depending on track condition.

open class maybe 1:36 to win on a good day 1:38 on a slow day.

club is an interesting one. I'm not really sure but I'd guess the top guys will be in the low 40s. maybe a dead 40 or 41 will do it.

Perhaps the Club class goal of 1:44 is too low?

I've done a 1:49 there on semi's with 190rwk's in my Silvia so maybe 1:48 is more realistic? I don't know what type of power and mods the best of the club class cars have?

Any ideas on who might be at the top in Club class? Any specs or details on the favourite in Club Class?

Only time will tell......

1:44's is pretty close to the mark for clubsprint (perhaps +/- a second or so) i would say

Most of the international guys would have to be here by now. Has anyone seen them out on track?

im curious as to how the visitors go about getting the cars around and stuff while over here?? do they organise it, grab a yellow pages and find a tilt tray... or does the event organiser take care of them and organise everything they need??

where are the cars kept?? at the track?? at their hotel?? at the event coordinators house/workshop etc??

im just wondering if theres 10 full blown time attack cars sitting in a hotel carpark somewhere... that would be a fantastic sight.

lol, Ian from hi octane is helping the OS guys with organising transport etc for them. as for where the cars are at any given moment I don't think that knowledge would want to be made public as sadly there are people out there who would see it as an opportunity for theft or vandalism either of which would be devastating to the event and peoples image of our country.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...