Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Pwr Radiator 50mm Dual Pass With Oil Cooler


Recommended Posts

rughto we are ready to rumble

the price has gone up because i got them to put a power steering cooler as well

last chance to get on board is friday

after that you miss out

pete

Hi

Trying to follow the thread have you opened it to other models as I need 2 for a 33GTR.

Cheers

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

update

pwr changed the price 3 times on me

ive said all along ill take the orginal price

doesnt look like its going to work out

and after discussing with duncan on the weekend (although his issues i think are not radiator related)

red below

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ir...20&start=20

clifs

"BTW....the $800 PWR top of the line radiator is exactly as bad as the $350 china radiator. Might as well have thrown $500 on the ground and stomped on it. And to add insult to injury the china radiator was direct fit, and the PWR require heaps of work."

ill ask PWR once more to stick with the orginal deal of $750

but if that fails sorry to dick everyone around... please pm your details of your deposit and ill refund it

pete

  • 2 weeks later...

relax fellas, your dough is safe with fatz. he'll sort it out. btw the radiators are good. I don't think duncans problem was due to the rad. a rad in the same design as this one is currently used on the Advan/Berry/Hi-octane R34 and was used on their previous Berry/Newman R32 and is in use on lots of other big power track GTRs with great success. they do often take a while to get, and the do sometimes seem to have fitting hassles but by most accounts they are well worth the $ and effort.

oh, and it is a good price, a comparable jap radiator like an ARC etc is actually around $1000+ and a good jap air/oil cooler also around $1000. The rad set-up will probably be just over $1K by the time you plumb up the oil cooler etc and will do just as good a job. having a PS cooler in there too is a great idea, especially for GTRs. If I didn't already have a koyo radiator and a trust oil cooler on my 32 I'd be getting one in a heart beat.

anyway, regardless of whether you guys decide to go through with the rad or not fatz will take care of you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...