Jump to content
SAU Community

Sluggish In Low Revs

Mooney

By Mooney,
in Naturally Aspirated Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Goodwin Apprentice

Goodwin

Posted
Posted
Hey, i have a R32 with rb25 na. Seems to be sluggish in low revs, anything above 4000rpm and its good, what can i do can a different tune or anyone else experienced this and found a solution??

cheers

Welcome to Club N/A where no power off the line is just the beginning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Do u have an aftermarket exhaust? if so, it may be too big and actually cause a lack of back pressure resulting in the car being extra sluggish in low revs until a higher velocity of exhaust gas flows out, where it would be better for it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
_bobo_ Mentor

_bobo_

Posted
Posted

oOoO rb20...even worst lol

shoulda atleast tried to get a rb25.

but yeah 2.5inches is max you should go on a n/a otherwise you'll end up loosing back pressure.

2.25-2.5 is optimal for best performance. with a decent muffler and have it made as straight as possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
WESTWD Community Regular

WESTWD

Posted
Posted
is 2.5 inch exhaust system good for a na rb20de r32 gts?

on your car, i personally would of gone 2.25 as i think 2.5 is too big.

hahahhaah lol

no need to laugh at him man, he was just after some advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mooney Enthusiast

Mooney

Posted
  • Author
Posted

wtf i have a rb25 in mine, i have full exhaust system 2.5" with hi flow cat. worked diff and gearbox. adjustable fuel reg and gay ass pod filter. was thinking about extractors and chip it and give it a more aggresive tune

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
you could always give the CAS a good twist in the advanced direction. will make it pick up much quicker, but the engine won't last that long.

Premium fuel goes a long way, I've been running mine at full advance for years, not a problem. Even in the peak of summer, full load, doesn't even think about pinging.

Definitely give that CAS a little twist, free HP imo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

if you are able to run full advance without pinging (unless you are running c16) then i wouldn't be suprised if your timing belt is 1 tooth out. or you just don't know what pinging sounds like. but then again the ecu is probably knocking 15 degrees of timing out because it is hearing the knock, so you could probably back your timing off a bit and not lose any power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted
wtf i have a rb25 in mine, i have full exhaust system 2.5" with hi flow cat. worked diff and gearbox. adjustable fuel reg and gay ass pod filter. was thinking about extractors and chip it and give it a more aggresive tune

Run a few tanks of 98 fuel.

Remove any excess weight (stuff in the boot) - I'm guilty of having too much stuff there :rolleyes:

Check your tire pressures.

Clean your throttle body - you will be surprised how dirty it gets.

Try putting the pod in an enclosure or go back to a stock airbox and panel filter. You could be getting too much heat on the intake side of things.

Also are you running fairly wide tires and/or air-con? This causes alot of drag (resistance).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted (edited)

"Premium fuel goes a long way, I've been running mine at full advance for years, not a problem. Even in the peak of summer, full load, doesn't even think about pinging.

Definitely give that CAS a little twist, free HP imo."

how do you do that?

Edited by R34 -_-
Link to comment
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

the CAS is located on the front of the engine. it is a round thing with i think 3 bolts located at even intervals around the outside. each bolt will be in an ovalised slot allowing movement of the CAS.

this should only be done with a timing light and having locked the ecu into timing mode first. this way you can monitor how much you have altered the timing. if you go too far and get pinging/detonation/knock and don't realise it, it can result in engine damage. also make a mark on where the timing was before you started so you know how much you have moved it if you want to back it off a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
if you are able to run full advance without pinging (unless you are running c16) then i wouldn't be suprised if your timing belt is 1 tooth out. or you just don't know what pinging sounds like. but then again the ecu is probably knocking 15 degrees of timing out because it is hearing the knock, so you could probably back your timing off a bit and not lose any power.

The belt hasn't been changed so it's not a tooth out and my brothers r33 gts had his on full advance aswell for years (when it was na). I know what det sounds like, she ain't pinging. Also when the stock ecu hears det and takes out 15 degrees of timing all of a sudden its noticeable, which it definitely isnt doing.

Not suggesting every just go and smash timing as much timing into theirs as possible, but for mine and my brothers, full advance worked a treat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • WMDC35
      Gran Turismo 7 Time trial

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • MBS206
      Blue Smoke from exhaust, RB25DE+T

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
    • hardsteppa
      Like loud exhausts? You could be a psychopath.

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      No "could" about it.
    • GTSBoy
      rb20de neo +t conversion - boost pressure sensor needed?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Almost any ECU would work, from a 30 yr old PowerFC to a new Motec/Autronic. But presumably you want new middle of the road ECU, meaning that you want a Haltech or a Link, most likely. As to which model though? I dunno. I don't keep track of what they have in their current ranges. You don't want a plug in though, because plug ins can start to cause you the same wiring issues that you have to chase up with your stock ECU/loom swaps when an engine transplant is involved. If you use a Haltech (and presumably a Link) you could put the base map for the engine in and drive it around and not even need to "tune" it. It will work just fine. I can't recommend a tuner without a location (and even then I can't recommend many, being as I never use any tuners except myself and my brother-in-law). And not many tuners are happy to remote tune. Maybe they'd be happier doing it for a basically stock setup that just needs to be demonstrated to be working properly. But even then, not being able to be with the car to see what the hell is going on and sort out the inevitable problems that will result from an engine conversion done by an amateur..... unlikely to be enthusiastic about the job. And if you think that just adding 2 wires for the boost sensor is difficult - you don't want to be trying to install and set up an aftermarket ECU. You're going to have to bite down hard on something with either approach.
    • deuceforty2
      Wiring loom difference between A31 A/T RB20DET and R32 M/T RB20DET?

      By deuceforty2 · Posted

      wired everything up and confirmed that the red with white stripe is indeed the fuel pump pin on this harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...