Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i have a R32 with rb25 na. Seems to be sluggish in low revs, anything above 4000rpm and its good, what can i do can a different tune or anyone else experienced this and found a solution??

cheers

Welcome to Club N/A where no power off the line is just the beginning.

Do u have an aftermarket exhaust? if so, it may be too big and actually cause a lack of back pressure resulting in the car being extra sluggish in low revs until a higher velocity of exhaust gas flows out, where it would be better for it...

oOoO rb20...even worst lol

shoulda atleast tried to get a rb25.

but yeah 2.5inches is max you should go on a n/a otherwise you'll end up loosing back pressure.

2.25-2.5 is optimal for best performance. with a decent muffler and have it made as straight as possible.

is 2.5 inch exhaust system good for a na rb20de r32 gts?

on your car, i personally would of gone 2.25 as i think 2.5 is too big.

hahahhaah lol

no need to laugh at him man, he was just after some advice.

you could always give the CAS a good twist in the advanced direction. will make it pick up much quicker, but the engine won't last that long.

Premium fuel goes a long way, I've been running mine at full advance for years, not a problem. Even in the peak of summer, full load, doesn't even think about pinging.

Definitely give that CAS a little twist, free HP imo.

if you are able to run full advance without pinging (unless you are running c16) then i wouldn't be suprised if your timing belt is 1 tooth out. or you just don't know what pinging sounds like. but then again the ecu is probably knocking 15 degrees of timing out because it is hearing the knock, so you could probably back your timing off a bit and not lose any power.

wtf i have a rb25 in mine, i have full exhaust system 2.5" with hi flow cat. worked diff and gearbox. adjustable fuel reg and gay ass pod filter. was thinking about extractors and chip it and give it a more aggresive tune

Run a few tanks of 98 fuel.

Remove any excess weight (stuff in the boot) - I'm guilty of having too much stuff there :rolleyes:

Check your tire pressures.

Clean your throttle body - you will be surprised how dirty it gets.

Try putting the pod in an enclosure or go back to a stock airbox and panel filter. You could be getting too much heat on the intake side of things.

Also are you running fairly wide tires and/or air-con? This causes alot of drag (resistance).

"Premium fuel goes a long way, I've been running mine at full advance for years, not a problem. Even in the peak of summer, full load, doesn't even think about pinging.

Definitely give that CAS a little twist, free HP imo."

how do you do that?

Edited by R34 -_-

the CAS is located on the front of the engine. it is a round thing with i think 3 bolts located at even intervals around the outside. each bolt will be in an ovalised slot allowing movement of the CAS.

this should only be done with a timing light and having locked the ecu into timing mode first. this way you can monitor how much you have altered the timing. if you go too far and get pinging/detonation/knock and don't realise it, it can result in engine damage. also make a mark on where the timing was before you started so you know how much you have moved it if you want to back it off a bit.

if you are able to run full advance without pinging (unless you are running c16) then i wouldn't be suprised if your timing belt is 1 tooth out. or you just don't know what pinging sounds like. but then again the ecu is probably knocking 15 degrees of timing out because it is hearing the knock, so you could probably back your timing off a bit and not lose any power.

The belt hasn't been changed so it's not a tooth out and my brothers r33 gts had his on full advance aswell for years (when it was na). I know what det sounds like, she ain't pinging. Also when the stock ecu hears det and takes out 15 degrees of timing all of a sudden its noticeable, which it definitely isnt doing.

Not suggesting every just go and smash timing as much timing into theirs as possible, but for mine and my brothers, full advance worked a treat.

You cant hear an engine pinging, unless its pinging REALLY bad. Every engine is different. If you were to play with the timing, then you really need it up on a dyno to make sure its not pinging at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...