Jump to content
SAU Community

222rwkw On Stock Boost

tigermm

By tigermm,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tigermm Apprentice

tigermm

Posted
Posted

Finally got my R on the dyno today.

All i have done is 3" cat back with a cat removal pipe (yay nz)

It came up with 222 at the rears on 16psi. Now I know thats not really stock boost but it still has the restrictor in it and removing it only got me 2 psi and 8kw.

Is it normal for boost to be this high with just the exhaust fitted?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296970-222rwkw-on-stock-boost/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You are running GTR turbos @ 16psi?

That is not normal.

Power is a bit low, generally 1bar (14.7psi) will usually see 240-250rwkw. So considering you are running a bit more... not so good.

Start off by back the boost off to a safer level, 12-14psi max for GTR turbos (if one dies, it generally will kill your motor).

Then get some cam gears and a front pipe (fine with stock dumps), and then you should see a better result or similar, with less boost.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
You are running GTR turbos @ 16psi?

That is not normal.

Power is a bit low, generally 1bar (14.7psi) will usually see 240-250rwkw. So considering you are running a bit more... not so good.

Start off by back the boost off to a safer level, 12-14psi max for GTR turbos (if one dies, it generally will kill your motor).

Then get some cam gears and a front pipe (fine with stock dumps), and then you should see a better result or similar, with less boost.

I would assume by his post that he does not have a boost controller. He won't be able to back boost off

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well he removed the restrictor and gained another 2psi (18psi peak), is what i took from the way he worded it...

If there is a hole/split in the line then it is entirely possible to have increased boost without adjusting the actuators or a boost controller of some description.

tigermm Apprentice

tigermm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well he removed the restrictor and gained another 2psi (18psi peak), is what i took from the way he worded it...

If there is a hole/split in the line then it is entirely possible to have increased boost without adjusting the actuators or a boost controller of some description.

Yeah thats right, 18psi with the restrictor out. No other boost control system. What size is the hole in the restrictor meant to be?

Its weird tho, the dyno graph starts with boost already at 2psi at 40kmh in 3rd, so Im wondering if his sensor is a bit out and its actually running 14psi. Will have to get my own gauge and double check it.

How come one turbo dying takes out the motor?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

ceramic exhaust wheel, usually the rear turbo.

wheel shatters, sends ceramic shards/dust back onto the piston - do a search mate, plenty of detailed threads with pictures etc etc.

basically the older the turbos, the more risk you run when going over 12-14psi

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

I tried to find an answer to that very question Brandon and no one came forth as such. Still it appears to be common knowledge so it would be highly recommended to make sure you are running safe boost levels for stock turbos.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
I tried to find an answer to that very question Brandon and no one came forth as such. Still it appears to be common knowledge so it would be highly recommended to make sure you are running safe boost levels for stock turbos.

Yea, same here. Not that it affects me but whenever someone ask what pressure should they be running for stock turbo, I'll just reply 12psi to be safe. Some lucky ones may have gotten away with 14psi or 15psi for years but you cant expect every single turbo's the same. Morale of the story is, I rather be safe than sorry. You've got no one else to blame but yourself if it does shits itself.

It'll be a very costly experience or lesson to learn.

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

Actually I reread the thread and the data is fairly conclusive. Dead turbo results in ceramic dust being embedded in the piston on the exhaust side, check the photos out :action-smiley-069:.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...ad-t283890.html

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
I was gonna say - its pretty clear and conclusive what can happen, pictures are clear evidence of it occuring despite the what the "theorists" might tell you about it not being possible.

Not to doubt anything you are saying but can you PM me links to at least one of those threads. I would like to do some reading on the topic and find where they have had the 'dust' tested and confirmed it is actually ceramic

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

There is one linked above already?!?!

Considering it is on the exhaust side of the piston, what else is it honestly going to be after a turbo has let go?

Dirt? Sand? Come on...

EDIT: i know, they must be tiny rocks that started off as big rocks that made it past the air filter, were minced up by the compressor wheel, sent through the cooler and TB's and then somehow ended up soley on the exhaust side! :D

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

No, if its dust or rocks then its drugs! nothing to do with ceramics. If you have negative pressure in the motor compared to the turbine or exhaust then the air will flow to that negative pressure...simple really.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Any hard and non combustible object entering the combustion chamber = bad. Ceramic turbos are a time bomb for your engine if you're overboosting them...might aswell take off your air filter for better flow too :D

Also note it varies from compressor to compressor and engine to engine how much psi you can get away with on stock ceramic turbos.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
Finally got my R on the dyno today.

All i have done is 3" cat back with a cat removal pipe (yay nz)

It came up with 222 at the rears on 16psi. Now I know thats not really stock boost but it still has the restrictor in it and removing it only got me 2 psi and 8kw.

Is it normal for boost to be this high with just the exhaust fitted?

yep soon as the restrictor is removed the std ecu pours in the fuel and dumbs it down. Most GTR's will pull around 190-200rwkw with a stock ecu, with a mines ecu they will pull around 220 (loads more timing about 29 degrees peak but still rich) a remap will yeild 230rwkw at less boost or 240kw with the restrictor removed and the remap controlling boost.... Sarumatix yours still has the highest reading on my dyno for a std rb26 so dont worry..... yet :D

Edited by URAS
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
There is one linked above already?!?!

Considering it is on the exhaust side of the piston, what else is it honestly going to be after a turbo has let go?

Dirt? Sand? Come on...

EDIT: i know, they must be tiny rocks that started off as big rocks that made it past the air filter, were minced up by the compressor wheel, sent through the cooler and TB's and then somehow ended up soley on the exhaust side! :)

ROFL.

Yes, not saying it isn't ceramic but no one has actually proven it to be that.

Keep in mind that you are talking about dust, not chunks, and when a turbine wheel comes off, what happens to the comp wheel? It starts machining the housing away at the front. This creates dust also. What happens to alloy dust when you burn it? It looks like what you'd imagine ceramic to look like.

Theories of engines sucking blades back into themselves is a bit far fetched. Can happen, I'm sure, but you guys all make out like it's going to happen to every single GTR turbo that ever existed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • GTSBoy
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
    • Kinkstaah
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The fact that US/JDM plates actually fit the skyline bumpers properly is a big, big thing for me as they are the correct dimensions. Annoyingly you can't opt for a normal plate (or plate combination) in that size. You have to make up your own one, and at that point you'd still know it wasn't randomly assigned. 
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, really, that's any ECU, because it's not so much the ECU that the tuner connects to, but a laptop that's connected to the ECU. You have to have the tuning software installed locally. The "remote" part is essentially just remote desktop (RDP) or VNC type access. Nevertheless, if you're looking to upgrade, then you're immediately in the Haltech/Link territory, both of which can be done by any number of competent tuners here in Oz. But without a dyno, you'll definitely also need a wideband O2 sensor fitted, and you'll probably be relying on "auto" tuning a bit, where you drive it around under various loads and then apply the corrections that the ECU learns (basically applying the fuel trims that the ECU has to do to correct the mixtures). Tuning the timing is a little harder. It can be difficult to trust the old OEM knock sensors on RBs, so it is definitely best to have someone who knows what they're listening for, with knock ears (a piezo microphone connected to the engine, and and little amp and headphones so the listener can hear the angry men with hammers who live in the engine). That is more difficult to do remotely, and I suspect the only sane way is to be quite conservative on timing. But that's OK. You're probably waaaaay better off with conservative timing where you are. What is the fuel situation? 98RON available? Or low grade jungle juice?
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I see your point, I didn't think too deep into it, was purely focused on the price. There's no bad blood between myself and GSM, they acknowledged the price was cheaper else where and at the time couldn't match it. 
×
×
  • Create New...