Intro - Vtec Yo! Picture Already Attached

[teK--]

Hey BlackDC5S,

I too was apprehensive at first to join when I don't even drive a Nissan let alone a Skyline, but primarily I did it because a couple of my mates were in the club and they pointed out that it has no restrictions on membership. The DECA event this month was my first with the club and I found everyone friendly and easy to get along with; About 10% of the cars attending weren't even Nissans!

So yeah sign up you will not regret it

[tkdbboy]

you can wire your AC to turn on full blast when you hit vtec to enhance the vtec experience............ i was considering that when I had my accord..... alongside the wipers goin on and windows going down ... haha

[BlackDC5S]

you can wire your AC to turn on full blast when you hit vtec to enhance the vtec experience............ i was considering that when I had my accord..... alongside the wipers goin on and windows going down ... haha

hahahahahhaa... i was thinking about wiring it to teh speakers to play an explosion when it does. VTEC bOOMMMMMMMMMMM.

Alright guys, coilovers and CAI is in, car runs a lot smoother now.

I now have an additional $1000 to get track ready. Not relaly looking to be competing at the moment so what are some suggestions for how to spend this money?

Tyres were initially on my list but i didnt want to go that way because i'm getting wider rims in future and it'd be just a waste ot get tyres now.

So i was thinking:

1. Used set of wheels , 17x8 and 17x9 staggered with some good road/performance tyres (Falken 615s?)

2. Rear sway bar, strut bars and a camber kit

3. Exhaust

I'm not really partial to further body bracing at the moment as the car's power hasn't been increased to the piont where it surpasses factory provided bracing. So wheels seems my preference atm. Exhaust would sound nice but again it doesnt make big diff. Planning to turbo in future so again long term goals don't match that short term mod as i'll be throwing away the headers/catback in favor of a turbo manifold and bigger turboback piping.

maintenance wise i've arleady done the services and valve adjustments so should be ok. Also got my chain belt tensioner checked and its fine so no need at the moment.

Suggestions?

[Russman]

Staggered rims on a front wheel drive? Is that common?

[BlackDC5S]

Staggered rims on a front wheel drive? Is that common?

I could be mistaken (and beleive me i could be wrong) but the theory is that with FWD is that the rear wheels should follow the front ones around, kinda like ragging an unwilling, unturning pair of ugly stepchildren around.

Hence more grip at the front than rear, hence wider at front vs rear... and stiffer suspension at back vs front.

I welcome and standy ready to be corrected though

[robzilla]

i wouldnt be too worried about finding staggered wheels.

but definitely make a rear sway bar one your first purchases, they work wonders in FWD's

Also get on board the next DECA event. FWD's are very competitive there!

and as for having a Honda, the more diversity the better i reckon!

[Russman]

I could be mistaken (and beleive me i could be wrong) but the theory is that with FWD is that the rear wheels should follow the front ones around, kinda like ragging an unwilling, unturning pair of ugly stepchildren around.

Hence more grip at the front than rear, hence wider at front vs rear... and stiffer suspension at back vs front.

I welcome and standy ready to be corrected though

Hmmm. I'd just go the same front and back. Then you can rotate too.

[Birds]

Yep, don't need to do the staggered stuff with a FWD. I've seen plenty over in the UK put bigger wheels on the rear anyway...just for show. Just put on a nice big rear swaybar (be careful if you're not experienced with FWD oversteer, it can catch you out). If you want some counter measures for the torque steer and/or understeer, then an LSD is an expensive but worthwhile modification. Although I think these Hondas have them as factory equipment from memory.

[Do-Luck]

I'd concentrate on suspension more than anything else to start off with. What you are saying about the power/suspension isn't exactly true, as you can almost always improve a cars handling straight out of factory, even if your car hasn't had any power mods yet.

I'm quite partial to a nicely modified Honda, providing it has a nice set of Jap wheels and doesn't look too over the top.

[llama_au]

^^^what he said. And the thing with suspension mods is that when you go turbo, it'll all be there for you.

I'm not overly familiar with Hondas either - however this really applies to any FWD. Add a rear swaybar or thicker rear swaybar if one already exists. This is the best modification you will ever do in a FWD handling-wise. This will eliminate a fair amount of understeer. Don't upgrade the front swaybar - this will introduce more understeer which is what you're trying to avoid. Front and rear strut braces will make some difference. While you're at it replace the stock bushes with urethane items. Camber bolts will allow you to run a more track-oriented alignment (more camber than your coilovers will allow) however be careful with this. If your car is your daily aggressive camber is a bad idea. The car will tram-line (basically following every crease in the road) and of course you'll get uneven tyre wear. Normally your coilovers would allow enough camber adjustment for a street alignment.

So in summary suspension mods are the best way to spend that further $1000 you have now.

[No Crust Racing]

welcome! i love how this site is jdm friendly to all

Best VTEC pic in the world hands down.

Even though I've seen this a million times it still makes me lol so hard.

Oh yeah, Welcome aboard

I've been on here since 2005 or so and since that time have owned an R33 GTST, an R33 GTR, a VY SS, an AU Fairmont and am currently driving a BA Fairmont with an S13 as my track car - Diversity is NOT problem. I spend more time here than NissanSilvia forums because this place rules and SAU Vic has got to be one of, if not THE best car club in Vic.

[zero-R33-]

Welcome to the club mate.

[R32gts-t]

I'd spend the $1000 on a fire extinguisher, helmet, upgrade rear sway bar, a set of kumho ku36 rubber and a good wheel alignment...

you may need to kick in an extra couple of hundred but those mods will transform the car majorly!

[ARTZ]

Not sure how a fire extinguisher and helmet will transform the car ??

Mate had one of these b16 engines, he put a b18 block with some new pistons and upped the compression to about 11, put the standard b16 head back on it...went like a cut cat....if you havent got that much cash just raise your comp even will liven it up heaps...doesnt cost much to shave ya head

Vtec isnt made to make you go warp speeds, its just meant to supply a more lively driving experience which they do well...

Oh yeah...I love hondas, almost as much as my nissan

[Russman]

Not sure how a fire extinguisher and helmet will transform the car ??

It will allow you to take it to a track smartass.

[ARTZ]

Is that all, I was kinda hoping it would turn into an alien robot that would attempt to destroy humanity, well r32 drivers mainly, they're all so grumpy

Edited December 4, 2009 by doozooby

[Travis Trayhern]

just a quick one with the dc5 you cant really do much to the suspension because of the way they designed the car and how it all works and travels, if you lower them it messes everything up nd make it worse on the track! might look fully sic but isnt. i would do some reading into it.

i would spend money on decent rubber

cat back exhaust (still can be used in the future if charged)

slotted rotors and decent pads

anyhow welcome

[Travis Trayhern]

here is some info just quickly for you. did some quick digging.

info from http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2297884

This chassis is not the easiest to tune. But it can be setup to be much easier to drive and much more competitive than many make it out to be... But there are things that need fixing, unlike previous generations.

Most of the main points have been covered, but I will reiterate some I feel are of great importance:

* Steering arm angle. Get this as close to parallel with the ground as you can. Inverted tie rod ends can be used. A fellow over on clubrsx.com has designed a steering arm bracket that raises the mounting point of the inner rod as well. I can tell you first hand it is a very nice piece.

* Front caster angle. The more you can get, the better. Look into Kmac camber/caster plates, and consider a set of caster-offset spherical bearings for the front LCAs(Special Project Motorsports). Or if your pockets are deep, Tracy Sports/M&M Honda make LCAs with the spherical bearings already pressed in. I have heard numbers such as 7-11mm of increased offset. What that translates into in degrees of positive caster, I do not know. But expect to pay around $1500 for a pair.

* Revalved rear shock absorbers. Koni makes great units... but with the spring rate needed in the rear, they are simply not up to the task.

* Stiff rear swaybar. What is the best unit? It is beyond me. NTCustoms and I were just chatting today about a friend he knows who has found many of the aftermarket swaybars for the DC5 to be almost erroneous in design. How much truth there is in this statement I do not know.

* Front roll center. Due to the different design of the front and rear suspesion on this chassis, lowering the car evenly will unevenly bias the front and rear roll centers. J's Racing makes a nice looking unit, an offset ball joint which raises the position of the front steering hub in relation to front LCA, theoretically correcting the roll center to a more appropriate level. What is the correct level? I have no clue, and I doubt there are many who do. I have not actually used the J's piece... and the location of the vehicle's roll center (and the corresponding correction required, if any) will almost certainly differ from vehicle to vehicle, depending on setup. The J's Roll Center Adjuster is more of a "best guess" correction. But from what Ive heard and read, it is better than nothing.

* Front camber angle. More negative camber! As much as you can get! Well... not really... But with the Mcpherson strut front, the dynamic camber gain via compression of the suspension is almost negligible. And the amount of negative camber attainable is limited... Even when using adjustable camber plates. There are ways around this, such as using 1 or 2 eccentric crash bolts in the strut housing to illicit more camber. Or swapping the front LCAs for the DC5R units. But regardless, you will need a good deal... especially if you are running R-compound tires. Shoot for being able to attain at least 3 degress of negative camber. This should allow you some room for tuning your setup to your liking.

* Weight Reduction. This can be said for any car. The lighter it is, the faster you are going to go. But the DC5 is heavy for a Honda. Especially one marketed as a "sporty" car. It weighs in the 2700s stock, which is almost a travesty. The K20 and nicely geared 6speed make up for some of this... but the handling and braking performance suffer. If you can trim a few hundred pounds off the car, great! If you can trim 500 lbs off the car, fantastic!. The last time I had my car (an EM2, same chassis, different body) on the scales, it came in at 2500. It will be getting realigned and cornerweighted next week, and should be around 2400. Not bad, but hardly competition worthy. If you are serious about weight reduction, here are some things to consider:

* Ditch the stock seats for some(or 1) aftermarket fixed back seat. Most weight in around 15-20 lbs... vs the 60 lb stockers.

* Replace the roof skin with one from a lower model without a sunroof. I am not sure as to the availability of the sunroof on the DC5 chassis, but I believe the Canadian Base level DC5 comes without one. The DC5R also. You could fabricate a sunroof plug if that suits you, but I imagine youd shell out just as much.

* Carbon fiber trunk/hood. Not the most weight savings, but they are worth some. And they remove weight on the top of the vehicle, exactly where you don't want it.

* Interior panels/pieces. Remove what you don't need. If you can live without sound deadening, remove that too. Ditch the passenger side airbag, and consider an aftermarket steering wheel. Also consider the potential danger in streeting a car like this.

* Remove AC if the climate you are in warrants it. I live in Texas, so that is a definite no go.

* Reduce as much rotational and unsprung weight as you can.

* Driver modification. Hey... this one always needs work. The DC5 might not be the pinnacle of Honda's engineering, but it is far from a lemon. It fits within most "weekend warriors" needs... and then some. Don't get your hopes dashed because the car won't be able to keep up with an 2000lb EK hatch with a Kswap around the track. That is just the nature of the business. If you are actually looking to competitively campaign a car, you should look elsewhere.

... that being said, in regards to driving the car, I have found that it loves anything and everything you can do to rotate the rear. This means learning how to effectively trailbrake into corners, how to left foot brake in situations that require weight transfer off the rear, how to breathe the throttle to allow the rear some room to move, etc... It means spending some quality time with your car, going to driving schools, going to track days/HPDEs, and actually learning the ins and outs of it. Being able to effectively and quickly pilot any car requires time... the DC5 just requires a bit more.

[Russman]

Is that all, I was kinda hoping it would turn into an alien robot that would attempt to destroy humanity, well r32 drivers mainly, they're all so grumpy

[ARTZ]

Yeah i often dont understand me either