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Turbo Cars During Summer

dave_rb20

By dave_rb20,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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dave_rb20 Enthusiast

dave_rb20

Posted
Posted

gday,

This is the first time I've owned a turbo car (R33 gts25t) during a summer, especially in Perth can get very hot (40deg+ during January).

Are there any special precautions I need to take?

I am running fresh 10w40w mobil oil (152kkm on motor).

Coolant level is good, thermostat is fine.

I do have an exposed pod filter though.

We had our first taste of the hot weather last week, 36degs. Car seemed to run fine with no missing or knocking audible. I even hit boost (10psi) a couple of times and the car seemed to run well but obviously not as quick as a cool/cold day. I'm a bit hesitant to 'thrash it' in this weather, but then you look at events like Motorvation with big $$$ turbo cars sitting on rev limiter in this kind of weather, and they don't have any problems.

Just makes me wonder is it really that bad to give it stick in this climate?

Is it worth changing to a different weight oil or something?

Any other precautions I can take? Other then monitoring oil pressure and water temperature.

Am I just being paranoid?

cheers

-dave

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adamskill Mentor

adamskill

Posted
Posted
then you look at events like Motorvation with big $$$ turbo cars sitting on rev limiter in this kind of weather, and they don't have any problems.

do you know, or are you guessing???

my 32 is shit during summer, its like driving a stocker again. heat soak is f**ked.

dave_rb20 Enthusiast

dave_rb20

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
do you know, or are you guessing???

my 32 is shit during summer, its like driving a stocker again. heat soak is f**ked.

fair call

I don't know if they're up for expensive rebuilds every few months.

still seem to perform ok though?

and yes heat soak is f**ked... i have r34smic, was hoping to save up for fmic before summer hit but it didn't happen.

am I best off just nursing it during the day?

I noticed there's a thread in the DIY/FAQ section about bypassing the coolant that usually runs through the intake manifold to bring down temps. Is worthwhile?

Edited by dave_rb20
defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
Posted

to add tho, cars with the big $$$ spent on turbos would more than likely have big $$$ spent on everything to accomodate the higher temps / thrashing etc..

only had my 33 a few months, a few hot days here in brisbane and i've noticed its not as responsive.. so yeah take it easy during the hot day time...

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just something to add regarding heat soak and intake temperatutes to give you a more real world idea.

Lately i've been keeping records of my intake temperatures during different types of driving and night/day temperatures. (temperature sensor for the microtech in the intake pipe at the pod filter).

The filter is just a pod sitting in the engine bay like most of our cars. During a hot day like today in Townsville the car at 60km/h will have 38-40 degree intake temps (not too bad), at 80km/h around 35-38 degrees. However, once i pull up at a traffic light it will climb one degree nearly every second. After a few minutes sitting at a set of lights it will reach 70-80 degree intake temps.

When people talk about intake temps for every 10 degrees being a few percent of power loss, you start to see why the cars run so shit on a hot day.

At night time on a fairly warm night at the same conditions it will be about 30-35 degrees at 60km/h, 25-30 degrees at 80km/h and a peak of about 50-55.

On winters night (not that you really call Townsville winter a proper Winter) i see about 20-25 degrees at 60km/h, 15-20 degrees at 80km/h and a maximum of about 35 in traffic. So you can see, huge differences just in intake temps at the filter. Lowest i have seen it is in the single digits on a winter night, but the car was doing a decent speed...

Due to this i've now made an all right airbox from aluminium and got some heatproof matting from clark rubber to insulate the inside. Ill then once again watch the intake temps to see how it alters it. (Clark rubber said the insulation blocks out 80-90% of heat, so we'll see how true that is).

Just something to think about :D

Edited by PM-R33
Mandingo Proficient

Mandingo

Posted
Posted (edited)
to add tho, cars with the big $$$ spent on turbos would more than likely have big $$$ spent on everything to accomodate the higher temps / thrashing etc..

Its all in the tune (and supporting systems of course) bud. Its the same reason Porsche can lap all day long with few (I wont get into cooling fans) dramas.

But yes, heat soak is a c*nt.

Also to Dave, I would mabye go back to standard airbox because of the extra dust I guess you boys would get over there. Not the dust from wittenoom either, the dirty red stuff that doesnt kill you :D

EDIT: Get yourself an oil cooler too. Its peanuts for the insurance if offers on a boosted engine.

Edited by Flipmo
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Hahaha

Has any one else got any air intake temperature readings/graphs to compare to mine? Possibly with a decent airbox setup?

Honestly compared to a hot day and a nice cool night mine feels like two different cars. Similar to the difference with driving by yourself or three other people in the car.

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
Posted

In hot weather, frontal airflow through radiator + intercooler is important (hence temps rise when stationary), and sitting on the spot smoking the tyres for example is a quick way to cause breakages. (high load, no airflow)

An Oil cooler will help prevent oil temps "getting out of the zone" (once again - airflow important), Oil temp and Water temp gauges may come in handy if your extra worried and want warning when your pushing too hard. Fresh Coolant and Oils wont hurt either. If still worried turn boost down a couple of pound. (less boost = less generated heat)

But the number 1 tip above all else. Your not going lap after lap after lap on the street. If your going to be on full boost in the heat of summer, Unless the engine/supporting systems are in poor condition, the engine wont just break like that. Just give it a chance to cool down between squirts. (The road is not a racetrack therefore in the real world this shouldn't be an issue)

Luke

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

i noticed this aswell, over the past few weeks here in sydney as temps has reached 40 degrees.

is it THAT necessary to run a heat shield around the pod air filter even if u hav a front mount cooler?

i also for the first time went for slightly ticker oil, running 10w-50 fully synthetic...

dave_rb20 Enthusiast

dave_rb20

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i noticed this aswell, over the past few weeks here in sydney as temps has reached 40 degrees.

is it THAT necessary to run a heat shield around the pod air filter even if u hav a front mount cooler?

i also for the first time went for slightly ticker oil, running 10w-50 fully synthetic...

Is there any warning signs I can look for?

with 10w40 the oil pressure gauge is sitting literally right on the top on cold start

then warm on hot day it sits exactly at the line that's between 4 and 0

might have to look into oil cooler...

:P

I do drive pretty sedately anyway (live 6km from work, just drive there and back, prob hit boost 3-4 times each way?)

but if I can save my engine with a $400 oil cooler ....... why wouldn't you?

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
Posted
I bet all you people complaining of heat soak are using unshielded pods. Put the standard airbox with a highflow panel filter back in and you will see a huge improvement.

I agree. Even though I only have 188rwkw. Factory Airbox (No snorkel), and Front mount IC. Sure you feel more power on a cold winters night, but the car runs perfectly fine even in 40 degree heat during the day. As I mentioned up earlier. Your not on boost constantly on the street, so you shouldn't be building ridiculous oil destroying temperatures that could do damage unless theres something very wrong with the way the car is setup.

lol. In regards to this though. I dont even put my Aircon on during summer. If i want comfort i drive the statesman. No power sapping comfort aids.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

just drive it like a normal bloody car

theres very little difference between your car a bog stock commodore / falcon

you aren't on full load / full boost %100 of the time, so it's irrelevant

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