Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a little overheating problem.

so i put an rb25 in my r32 a few months ago and have had this problem since then, its fine on the freeway sits between 77-80, then when i am sitting at the lights it will slowly rise the most i have seen was 95 degrees...

so first off i tried a bottle of mukout, the engine had been sitting around for a good year so i thought the galleries might need a clean out, no change.

i have done the following and have not noticed a change.

- new waterpump

- thermostat

- big 52mm alloy radiator

- multiple flushes

one observation i have made is if i leave the top hose off or look at the water in the radiator i get no water flow on idle, if i rev the engine it pours out and the water temp lowers.

what causes this??

as far as bleeding goes i think i have done enough, would air in the system cause this overheating problem im having?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298387-overheating-on-idle/
Share on other sites

Do you still use the factory viscous fan + shroud.. the shroud is important with temps

yes i did have it on but im not using it on the new radiator, its irrelevant anyway the reason its overheating is because there is no flow through the radiator at idle and i have no idea whats causing it!!

im thinking a pressure test on the cooling system is the next step?

maybe it requires a different thermostat, i went throuhg two before i found one that worked, maybe the fans arent strong enuf for the radiator or maybe they're drawing the wrong way (not being smart but ive done that before lol).

Thats all i can think off???

Or maybe its done a head gasket???

Edited by stefan.o

Remove the thermostat and see if it still heats up at idle. Best to check this on a warm day. This will tell you if it is restriction by the thermostat itself.

I think some open up more than others. You may still have gunk in the cylinder head and this with the same amount of restriction from the thermostat may be stopping the flow at idle.

i doubt its the thermostat because the one that i have in there now is a shitty aftermarket one and it opens very early about 64 degree's then when i stop up up it goes then when moving back down to 64ish.

when i swapped them i had just switched the car off then while it was still at operating temp i took the thermostat out and it was still open then began to close...

so im pretty sure its not the thermostat, water pump, radiator or fan.

if i hold it at 2000rpm the water will flow and the temps drop so to me it seems as though it can only be a restriction in the block/head?

next im gonna try removing the thermostat and sticking a hose in there to try and flush the shit out then run the car without the thermostat for a while just to be sure!

i dont know just throwing it out there what type of pulley have u got on the water pump. maybe the water pump is not spinning fast enough at idle. the larger the pulley the lower the speed off the water pump.

i dont know just throwing it out there what type of pulley have u got on the water pump. maybe the water pump is not spinning fast enough at idle. the larger the pulley the lower the speed off the water pump.

yeh interesting theory but im pretty sure theres only one size.

Terry, he's not running a fan. And that will explain everything. No fan, no air moving through the radiator. No air moving through the radiator, no cooling.

i'm running the stock clutch fan and shroud with a 52mm radiator, this all has no effect anyway im not getting flow, even if the coolant in the radiator was 1 degree it wouldn't help as its not flowing through at idle.....

Then what the hell does this mean?

yes i did have it on but im not using it on the new radiator,
Either you are using the fan or you aren't using the fan.

If you keep changing the story, we can't possibly help diagnose the problem!

Well then, maybe you need to use the shroud.

I've installed a RB25DET in my R32, and even with a standard radiator, standard clutch fan, standard shroud, I don't have any problems with overheating at idle.

"Fan Clutch"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_clutch

4th paragraph will give you the symptoms you described.

fan clutch, is common for lines to fail, but easy to test , search for it, I wrote a how to test article on here for it a while ago

the thermostat was placed in backwards ???? some cars they can be ?

did you burp the system, the two bleeds on the plenum and near thermostat area. and squeze the top and bottom hose when cool to and cap off to rid the air lock in the head ?????

turn on the heater full heat ...fan on when filling coolant, to rid the air lock in the heater core ?

do not use plain water ,, unless your motor blew its coolant on the road and you need to get home. it boiling point is too low and crusty engine insides.

dont mix coolant , never

water pump, failure, or bind up ???

you will overheat without the shroud in traffic

use Redline water wetter or Motul socool products when sorted out, it makes a huge difference

worse case,backflow the system with garden hose and flush it out,

if you took off the head ,, did you check the gasket isnt blocking the water galleries ?????

no more talk about the stupid fan or shroud, this is not the issue i have tried all configurations and there is no difference.

i also doubt its a bleeding problem, in my experience even without a bleed the air will eventually find its way out of the system as long as you keep coolant levels topped up.

when i get some time ill reverse flush it with a hose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...