Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd be keen to supercharge my skyline, but id do it properly with an aftermarket supercharger.

What i want to know is, bang for buck what puts out more power: n/a + Turbo or n/a + supercharger??? (on a minimal budget)

that is like asking how long is a piece of string. unless you can give turbo and supercharger sizes it is a pointless question,

if the engine was a rb25 and it was NA + stock turbo or NA + toyota supercharger then i would have to say that the turbo will shit all over it. the toyota supercharger is miles too small to effectively provide enough boost in the top end of a 2.5L. even on a 2L it would struggle. you have to remember that the superchargers are generally for toyota's 1.6L engines.

i know people who have put them on commodores before and while they do make a difference it does trail off a bit up top. the commodore motors are a bigger motor, but they don't rev as high as the rb motors so it sort of balances out a bit and brings them closer as far as the volume of air they use

I was meaning an aftermarket supercharger coz i know toyota ones are shit, but i don't have much to spend so id say about $2k is my budget. Also n/a plus T = shit power you only get like 180kw which is like a stock r33 gtst.

I was meaning an aftermarket supercharger coz i know toyota ones are shit, but i don't have much to spend so id say about $2k is my budget. Also n/a plus T = shit power you only get like 180kw which is like a stock r33 gtst.

When did Stock r33 GTSt's make 180kw? Mate take a 180rwkw NA+t against a 180rwkw DET and the +t will leave it miles behind.

Edited by Super Drager
I was meaning an aftermarket supercharger coz i know toyota ones are shit, but i don't have much to spend so id say about $2k is my budget. Also n/a plus T = shit power you only get like 180kw which is like a stock r33 gtst.

Gee... I must have only picked up 5KW with all the mods done on my R33 GTS-t then...

FMIC, full 3" TBE, lightweight flywheel, CAI setup... 185KW (That was a "roller coaster" setup though of a power curve... Once tuned 193RWKW...

DE+twill be more tractable power wise off boost too due to higher compresion.

meh, my 33 GTST made 178rwkw with nothing but a frount mount... It was running quite a lot of boost though...

added an ecu, full exhaust, pod filter and gained like 12 kws...

Now it's over 200 with all that shit, but the turbo is pushing out a bar of boost or more...

Every car is different.

don't waste your time with a supercharger, especially if you have a 'minimal budget'. Modifying performance cars has nothing to do with minimal budgets...

I was meaning an aftermarket supercharger coz i know toyota ones are shit, but i don't have much to spend so id say about $2k is my budget. Also n/a plus T = shit power you only get like 180kw which is like a stock r33 gtst.

firstly, 180kw is a hell of a jump over a stock NA. it is roughly a 60kw jump. what do you think is the reason why a NA+t using stock turbo etc won't make more power than a DET? and what makes you think that just bolting a supercharger on will be better? the reasons why a NA+t will only make as much power as a DET will be the same reasons why you won't get much of a different result with a supercharger install with a budget of 2k. do a NA+t and spend about 5k on the job and it will make a lot more than 180kw, as would a supercharger upgrade at the same money

When did Stock r33 GTSt's make 180kw? Mate take a 180rwkw NA+t against a 180rwkw DET and the +t will leave it miles behind.

not entirely true. if you have both cars crawl along at about 1500rpm and then floor it the NA will pull away, but if both cars are at around 3000rpm or a bit higher when you floor it the NA will pull away a fraction (doubt it would even be half a car length) as the NA will spool up the turbo quicker then they will both accelerate about the same. at the end of the day 180kw is 180kw. the NA will have more down low but up top they will both go the same. the only other thing that may make a difference is the gear/diff ratios. which ever ones has the shortest ratios will have the quicker acceleration, but will have to change gears sooner.

I was meaning an aftermarket supercharger coz i know toyota ones are shit, but i don't have much to spend so id say about $2k is my budget. Also n/a plus T = shit power you only get like 180kw which is like a stock r33 gtst.

lol.

dont compare the kw, compare the torque & response difference.

eg: i made 180 on 10psi but torque was around 499nM

comparing with other 180rwkw RB25DETs around they were getting 400~ nM of torque and were probably running bit more boost as well

I was meaning an aftermarket supercharger coz i know toyota ones are shit, but i don't have much to spend so id say about $2k is my budget. Also n/a plus T = shit power you only get like 180kw which is like a stock r33 gtst.

Furthermore to dori's post... you can make alot more then just 180kw..... but you must have the MONEY/time/motivation/know how and tuner...

if this is the dude in newcastle im thinking about that reckons he's strapped a supercharger from a toyota on a n/a skyline it run's like a f**king piece of shit and the bloke is f**king full of shit, and yer apprently he put something like this thread up on "SAU" which im assuming this is it so yer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...