Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah as long as its cool to touch..

Mind you I never did mine :whistling:

But its only logical...you don't want to work with a heat soaked engine bay if you can help it...nevermind tryuing to undo a scalding plenum...

Edited by ironpaw

But its only logical...you don't want to work with a heat soaked engine bay if you can help it...nevermind tryuing to undo a scalding plenum...

Yeah I get that. I was just wondering more about torquing the bolts and whether or not it had to be completely cold to do it.

How does one go about removing the studs with the nuts on them? 5mm spanner?

Lock 2 nuts against one another & then try to 'undo' the bottom one. Since it's stuck in place by the top one, the stud will come out.

Mmm, explanation flakey, but you'll work it out...

Edit - I've not pulled my plenum off so ignore this if I've misunderstood your question.

Edited by Commsman

I used a 1/4 inch drive socket & extension bar on mine, don't forget to give the head of the stud a solid tap before trying to remove.

Steel into alloy tends to form an electrolytic bond due to heat cycling (think seized gearbox drain & fill plugs), a decent hit with a hammer will break the bond. Go easy, the studs are very soft, if it doesn't loosen, give it another slightly harder hit. It should wind out with only a small amount of effort.

A little drop of WD40 or penetrene down the thread will not hurt either.

A dab of blue loctite is handy when fitting the longer studs; this will ensure the studs don't wind in too far as you tighten the nuts, as they aren't shouldered like the OEM studs.

Mask off the open inlet ports before removing the old studs, fitting the new studs and drilling your holes; I removed the tape after drilling, but before fitting the new studs & promptly dropped one of the long studs down No1 inlet port. pinch.gif It didn't fall into the cylinder (it's too big to fit anyway), but it was an inch past where i could reach with my fingers, and I had to use a claw tool to retrieve it.:whistling:

I nearly had a freaking heart attack, such a schoolboy error; don't be a mutt like me.:blush:

  • 4 years later...

Good luck. I don't even have the original aluminium spacer that was later used as the cutting template.

You'll probably be better off buying a gasket from Nissan (see OP for part number) and having one laser cut to your desired height

What do you mean "follow through with this"?

I sold a number of kits with the phenolic spacer and I think Andy and Craig did as well.

My old M35 is still alive and kicking on the Mornington Peninsula - going by the last pics I saw in a "for sale" ad, the spacer was still in there (you can tell by the raised plenum).

I am not running a plenum spacer on my PNM35, although if I could somehow get my hands on a Cosworth plenum I would most likely add a spacer.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...