Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol there was almost no info in that thread ^.

but that last post pretty much sums it up, parent company went under, dyno dynamics is supposed to be doing well... but a few people got the arse? doesnt really make sense but thats the story that i've pulled from reading about it on other forums

lol good ole NS.com and the rubbish, never ceases to amuse >_<

Same person that told me about it, also had a bit more interesting info...

It is believed it is due to the American arm sucking the cash up from the AUS/UK arms etc etc due to the US side highly underperforming, as a result - no cash left to go around and the Aussie arm has been bled dry.

That would sound fairly accurate to me given whats been going on in the world as DD items are probably the premier dyno here in aus, i can't think of many places with another brand over 100's of workshops/mechanics etc.

509DA Notice Under S.446a of Special Resolution to Wind Up Company

Resolved That Company Be Wound Up Under 439c©

Would that also mean that there not trying to save it, just shutting up shop and selling off all assests to pay debts, sounds a bit odd if the above statements are true that the AUS section is performing well.

Great, bring on the disney land dynos

DD is a disney dyno :D

they are actually a pretty good dyno but they are definately not even close to the best. It will be a shame to see them fold, im sure they will most likely restructure and re-emerge.

dyno dynamics are by far the best marketed dyno is australia and is sales show it but if you have ever used any thing else you soon see the shortcomings when compared to the competition. Workshops tend to be sheep when buying dynos.

Ive used Mainline, dynamic test sytems, mustang and dynapack and purchased a dyno based on its abilities not the sales pitch and price... in fact i paid more for a lesser known dyno (in aus anyway).

  • 1 month later...

yeah a mate of mine told me something similar. he just bought a dyno off them (ordered it either december last year or at the start of january) and was waiting for it. i happened to be talking to him about dyno dynamics being in trouble a few weeks back (mid jan) and he said that they would be back online in a week, which roughly coincides with the date of that press release. either way, he has his dyno now so he's happy.

DD is a disney dyno :P

they are actually a pretty good dyno but they are definately not even close to the best. It will be a shame to see them fold, im sure they will most likely restructure and re-emerge.

dyno dynamics are by far the best marketed dyno is australia and is sales show it but if you have ever used any thing else you soon see the shortcomings when compared to the competition. Workshops tend to be sheep when buying dynos.

Ive used Mainline, dynamic test sytems, mustang and dynapack and purchased a dyno based on its abilities not the sales pitch and price... in fact i paid more for a lesser known dyno (in aus anyway).

I suppose you have good things to say about Mainline and DTS?

That's been my experience anyway :)

  • 2 weeks later...

I've used mainline dynos and they are simple to operate with repeatable results. Dyno Dyanamics have the marketing and name, but I do not like their software and user control. I know that Dynocom, a US firm has been copying DD and Dynapack products and selling them at half of their retail price in the USA which could be why they are not doing so well. The owner of mustang dynos told me that dynocom is a copy cat dyno company that will copy anyones design to get leverage in the market,, but their engineering and software is not that great.

Trent, Can you share some info regarding the Dynapack dynos you have? What's it like compared to mainline and how involved is the setup for a tune compared to a bed chassis dyno that you just drive over? The Dynapack looks like to have at 15-30 mins worth of setup time?

  • 3 months later...
I've used mainline dynos and they are simple to operate with repeatable results. Dyno Dyanamics have the marketing and name, but I do not like their software and user control. I know that Dynocom, a US firm has been copying DD and Dynapack products and selling them at half of their retail price in the USA which could be why they are not doing so well. The owner of mustang dynos told me that dynocom is a copy cat dyno company that will copy anyones design to get leverage in the market,, but their engineering and software is not that great.

Trent, Can you share some info regarding the Dynapack dynos you have? What's it like compared to mainline and how involved is the setup for a tune compared to a bed chassis dyno that you just drive over? The Dynapack looks like to have at 15-30 mins worth of setup time?

Takes me less time to setup than strapping down cars on the dd we used before.

Setup time is 5mins max.

Bear in mind the dynapack is dearer than both mainline and dynodynamics, so price up all your options first.

Me i personally could never go back to a roller style dyno regardless of the brand as none of them have any where near the control as a hub setup..... TBH only a person who has never used a hub dyno will have negative things to say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...