Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe it should but it doesn't. Only single piston calipers up front.

I had heard about single piston calipers on 32's and am yet to see one. This confirms it.

If you're going 4 piston calipers keep an eye out for R33 gtst brakes. They bolt straight up and are 296mm not 280mm and often about the same price.

I had heard about single piston calipers on 32's and am yet to see one. This confirms it.

If you're going 4 piston calipers keep an eye out for R33 gtst brakes. They bolt straight up and are 296mm not 280mm and often about the same price.

You are right about the gtst with single pistons and 5 stud I didnt belive it until my mate brought on with them on it. and yes its a factory turbo not an na convertion

OK, I had a go at swapping the brakes and I ran into a couple problems. The one that is worrying me is that the S14 rotors are too thick; they rub against the dust shield thingo. Will I be able to use the thinner Skyline rotors safely or do I need to considder modifying the dust shield?

The other problem was that the banjo bolts from the Skyline were too long for the new calipers but I'll just get some shorter ones.

The S14 calipers do not use banjos. They use a flare fitting. You can buy them from any brake shop.

Just cut as much of the dust shield off as you need. Most of us here remove them completely. Depends how much street driving you plan on doing I guess.

It's a non-mspec GTS-T, I've got one too, 5 stud with the puny gts brakes... how are you connecting the calipers (hard-lines, flexis, etc?) as I'm doing the same upgrade in a while and it's always good to hear from someone who's done it already..

Sam

Yeah but I've heard of early gtsT's that had em too.

GTScotT's R32 had single pistons on it, it was a factory turbo too and 5 stud. (im not GTScotT)

also had rear brakes that we just couldnt match to anything, pads off some rarity model silvia and 5 stud rotors... go figure...

for conversion use the hard and soft line from the caliper right up to where it meets the chassis rail. the outlet on the chassis rail is the same yet AFAIK the single pots use a one peice rubber line, so you will need the complete 4 pot line caliper to rail.

Glad I came across this thread , Ive got a R32 GTE w/turbo conversion an 4 stud . Was jus gonna fit standard 4 pots pots but if i can fit 33gtst would be beta , any tips tricks or other info i should know . Also car is factory non-hicas which i wanna keep , any help appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...