Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

As the thread title suggests, I am just sick and tired of being defected by the cops all the time. As we all know, each time it is such a time waster and is so costly. Furthermore, I drive safely and considerately on the roads and don't hoon or anything but cops always chase me and give me grief and even once said that my car is a "cop magnet."

Anyway, long story short - I've recently bought a R33 GTR Vspec and want to keep this car as stealthy as possible, I've taken of all the badges including the GTR ones and removed all stickers...however, the next step is to make the car defect-free...how the heck do I do this? I've heard about getting the car engineered and be given an engineer's certificate...I have no idea what this is or where I can get this done in Melbourne - can you guys please shed some light on the matter.

I'd really appreciate referrals with contact details and estimated costings; all I can think that the GTR has that might be defectable are boost controller, Apexi Power FC, Twin Pod filters and a Blow off valve. Please give me some support here fellas, it's driving me insane and I find myself scared shitless sometimes when I'm driving around and a cop follows me...please share your experiences.

Many thanks,

Kevin

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

of course if you break the law then that's going to happen

if you want to avoid defects then keep it stock

or do minimal mods that can be changed back to stock with no fuss and little cost

Well, you've taken the right step to start off with. Taken all the badges off.

You don't need an engineers unless you are doing something major.

Boost controller = Defectable

Apexi Power FC = defectable

Twin Pod Filters = Defectable (mainly due to ignorant cops)

BOV = defectable only if it is venting to atmosphere.

SO:

Hide your boost controller in the cabin somewhere that is not easy to see. Then make sure the solenoid is buried somewhere in the engine bay, or painted black. Just make sure you can't see it.

The Apexi is fairly easy to hide, but just make sure you cover it up. The police have no reason to suspect you have aftermarket ECU if everything under the bonnet looks stock.

Twin Pod Filters scream "modified". best thing you can do is fold up some plastic sheet, or sheet metal painted black to look like a factory air box and put this over. If you are going to go the trouble, you might as well make a cold air box. (better performance in street traffic too.)

Plumb back the BOV

DONE!

Hi fellas,

As the thread title suggests, I am just sick and tired of being defected by the cops all the time. As we all know, each time it is such a time waster and is so costly. Furthermore, I drive safely and considerately on the roads and don't hoon or anything but cops always chase me and give me grief and even once said that my car is a "cop magnet."

Anyway, long story short - I've recently bought a R33 GTR Vspec and want to keep this car as stealthy as possible, I've taken of all the badges including the GTR ones and removed all stickers...however, the next step is to make the car defect-free...how the heck do I do this? I've heard about getting the car engineered and be given an engineer's certificate...I have no idea what this is or where I can get this done in Melbourne - can you guys please shed some light on the matter.

I'd really appreciate referrals with contact details and estimated costings; all I can think that the GTR has that might be defectable are boost controller, Apexi Power FC, Twin Pod filters and a Blow off valve. Please give me some support here fellas, it's driving me insane and I find myself scared shitless sometimes when I'm driving around and a cop follows me...please share your experiences.

Many thanks,

Kevin

You've gotta be joking?

Your other thread is 3 pages long, and in that i told you about 4 times how to go about it.

It is simply not worth trying to get the ADR Emissions done, therefore things like a PFC are still defectable - but given it is a 2min job to change... i dont see a problen.

I gotta say West, although generally I get left alone, I feel like I've been stalked/pulled over for nothing, and I am clean as a whistle in terms of police/driving records. Maybe I am just paranoid.

Agree 100% though, after market BOV is a real give-away and totally unnecessary in most cases.

Thanks fellas...I used to be a bit of a "ricer" to be honest, e.g. stickers, big wrings, decal stuff like that...now, I'm sick of it and love the clean and stealthy look...I've made my car look stock as a rock besides some nice Volk rims and a carbon fiber bonnet, the car looks stock as a freaken rock.

I think the trick is to hide, tuck away and make the car look as stock as possible. Besides that, there's no other way, right? I've learnt a few things...thanks all! Any other suggestions?

It's the BOV, PODS and Power FC that I always get done for usually...now with the BOV, I love the Ssshhttt sound of the atmospheric blowoff valve sound...just can't go back to stock...cannot, cannot....please God, please forgive me as I have sinned....with the PODS, I must have it too as I love the fluttering and sucking sound...and the Power FC - I need it for engine management, I even went as far as trying to hide my hand controller under my seat once but the guys in blue know where to search nowadays - any suggestions?

Well, you've taken the right step to start off with. Taken all the badges off.

You don't need an engineers unless you are doing something major.

Boost controller = Defectable

Apexi Power FC = defectable

Twin Pod Filters = Defectable (mainly due to ignorant cops)

BOV = defectable only if it is venting to atmosphere.

SO:

Hide your boost controller in the cabin somewhere that is not easy to see. Then make sure the solenoid is buried somewhere in the engine bay, or painted black. Just make sure you can't see it.

The Apexi is fairly easy to hide, but just make sure you cover it up. The police have no reason to suspect you have aftermarket ECU if everything under the bonnet looks stock.

Twin Pod Filters scream "modified". best thing you can do is fold up some plastic sheet, or sheet metal painted black to look like a factory air box and put this over. If you are going to go the trouble, you might as well make a cold air box. (better performance in street traffic too.)

Plumb back the BOV

DONE!

Thanks mate...your words have given me inspiration as I'm so close to giving up as I'm going paranoid...seriously, I love the GTR but it's getting a bit much and I find myself feeling paranoid on the streets... :)

I will spend some time in research how to hide the fuucckasss...

You've gotta be joking?

Your other thread is 3 pages long, and in that i told you about 4 times how to go about it.

It is simply not worth trying to get the ADR Emissions done, therefore things like a PFC are still defectable - but given it is a 2min job to change... i dont see a problen.

Hi Ash, yeah, I'm going a bit paranoid here - please forgive me. The other thread was more about how the heck do I clear the defect and how to extend the expiry date on the notice, whereas this thread is how to freak do I avoid any another of those yellow fuucckaass as along the years, I've had 4 yellow fairy canaries and 2 EPA emissions tests...seriously...for the love of God. :)

Factory GTR BOV's have a noise that only GTR BOV's produce... i cannot see how you need an ATMO, they do not have the teeter-totter of GTR items which is utterly unique.

And you do not need the H/C in the car. The check engine light lets you know if anyhing is going wrong, that is the whole purpose of it.

So have PODS, no problem. Factory I/C & BOV's, remove the H/C and honestly you will only get EPA's if you have a loud exhaust.

Also get rid of that HYBRID CF bonnet. It's a fibreglass hybrid, not pure CF, and just another attention attractor.

Also given you have had heaps of defects i think you would almost HAVE to be attracting attention by how you must be driving.

Hi Ash, yeah, I'm going a bit paranoid here - please forgive me. The other thread was more about how the heck do I clear the defect and how to extend the expiry date on the notice, whereas this thread is how to freak do I avoid any another of those yellow fuucckaass as along the years, I've had 4 yellow fairy canaries and 2 EPA emissions tests...seriously...for the love of God. :)

I've had more EPA's, less defects though - but that is because all my mods are hidden.

EPA was just for my old exhaust which was 110dB lol.

These days though its much much quieter so i expect less attention overall. Even on SAU cruises you cannot hear my car anymore :)

You can make 380rwkw mate without even an obvious mod - im not going into anymore detail though over the net.

LOL!

Why do you need BOV when standard gtr bov is as good? Cops don't follow you for no reason unless you've got a bad record on their system.

Just leave it standard....or with a pair of N1's, they can't tell.

i dont have a bad record and cops follow me when i take my skyline out they do u turns to come and pull me over and all :)

i dont think he was meaning they wait outside his house for him to go out and stalk him..

if you bought an import, you should've known that imports attract cops

you cant complain about being pulled over, especial if u have a CF bonnet and drive around with an atmo BOV,

its like saying, my car is stealthy, while painting it in a fluro color :)

Do you have fully sick cheap Chrome wheels? Stickers, HID, Loud Exhaust, Standout colour, gauges on the A-pillar, Bride Seat that you don't even do track work....................car that sit too low because you have a fully sick set of coil-over...................!

^^^

they can't claim you were hooning if you weren't

they need to witness hooning or have evidence to prove it

if they pull you over just going about ur business not doing anything wrong, and say you were hooning

that will never even make it to court

I've made my car look stock as a rock besides some nice Volk rims and a carbon fiber bonnet, the car looks stock as a freaken rock.

I like that part. Hardly stock looks wise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...