Jump to content
SAU Community

400rwhp = What Semi Slicks.....?

KEN-R34

By KEN-R34,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

KEN-R34 Community Regular

KEN-R34

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Got my car back from my tuner yesterday and I'm running 400rwhp with a GT3076 and cams on a comfortable tune..... :)

Now I want some semi slicks on the rears before I hit the drags :ninja:

Anyone know of good bang for buck semi slicks I can grab in WA or online?

Thanks for the help in advance!

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300475-400rwhp-what-semi-slicks/
Share on other sites
KEN-R34 Community Regular

KEN-R34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You want drag tyres just for the drag strip, or you want semi-slicks for road/circuit ?

For the drag strip I'd go Mickey Thompson Street ET's, and for circuit racing Bridgestone RE55's

Hi Mate,

Thanks for the advice!

Well seeing as its not an all out track car and used on road more, I want to go with some really good semi slicks for road/track.

Where is the best place to grab Semis from?

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Hi Mate,

Thanks for the advice!

Well seeing as its not an all out track car and used on road more, I want to go with some really good semi slicks for road/track.

Where is the best place to grab Semis from?

You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres.

Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive.

Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags.

If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

KEN-R34 Community Regular

KEN-R34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres.

Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive.

Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags.

If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

Thanks for your input.

Comfort is not a issue as it is a weekend car usually.

Also the $$$ is not a problem as I need to buy new rear tyres soon anyway and I would like good quality tyres on the rear for a weekend drive.

I'm staying away from full drag slicks because I would like to see what I can run on road legal semi slicks at the drags.

Dsturbd Grand Master

Dsturbd

Posted
Posted
That's impressive. How much whp was your 31 running?

Cheers James let me know how they go!

Not impressive , 60 ft shit for the tyres .. 31 makes 400+ rwhp , 60fts on Toyo Teo 225x50x16 are 1.8s .. 10sec 32 we used R888 toyos .. Comes down to driver and rest of the car set up

Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted (edited)

^^ yer i was reading an old hpi mag my gf bought me for 50c at an op shop last night :D and they were giving '10 ways to get a stockish rb25 into 11's' was kind of suprised to read they said ur best to ditch all stiff suspension (coilovers etc) and run stock struts/springs + minimum drag radials with small rims 15-16"

Edited by Char
im late Proficient

im late

Posted
Posted
You want drag tyres just for the drag strip, or you want semi-slicks for road/circuit ?

For the drag strip I'd go Mickey Thompson Street ET's, and for circuit racing Bridgestone RE55's

+1

Semi-slicks = slower times at the drags

Semi-slicks are better for the street but too expernsive as an ongoing cost. Who wants to spend $2K every 12 months on tyres?

A good quality street tyre will do the job for the street well enough.

MT ET's are great for drag as the side wall is softer and far more suited for drag racing (that's what they were made for).

If you are serious about quick times, get ET's + smaller diameter rims to allow you to have more sidewall (rather than less).

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

semi slicks are not better for the street they are shit

noisy pick every little stone pebble etc up and fling em into your undertray paint etc

and if it rains well good luck

Someone once described em to me on here as sounding like tractor tyres and its quite true

(I drive my car with semis to the local circuit)

Stiff as sidewalls no good for drag at all, great for circuit no good for anything else

Run street tyres for street and get some drag radials on another pair of rims for the drags

and if ya have not got a cage sell the used drag tyres n rims once ya crack 11's

GWP021 Veteran

GWP021

Posted
Posted

i run the 595rs as a hybrid tyre and it performs well two seasons on the skidpans at ahg with driving all the way up from mandurah and back and a little weekend use

bang for your buck hybrid two thumbsup but if your serious MTs for drags and toyos or bridgestone for track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...