Jump to content
SAU Community

Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)


Recommended Posts

Hey Duncan, need some urgent info on the inlet plenum

Looking at the engine pic it appears to have no adaptor between the throtle body and the inlet plenum plus they have turned it over 180 deg so that the throtle cable does not foul the fuse box. To do this you need a longer cable. What cable did they use?

Also the pipe between the intercooler and throtle body, where does it go thru the chassis? Thru the vertical section below the battery or have they done down thry the battery tray

Can you post a few close up pic's for more detail

Hey Darrin,

Im doing exactly the same. Have the plenum in, waiting for some silicones from JJ.

I've asked Duncan the same Q's. I've got the T/B in the way it was fitted, but I have spacer. Going to get an R31 throttle cable. Have had to hack into fuse box. Will be going down thru battery platform then along under radiator to pas side, then up to turbo outlet. Have sent fmic back to JJ and ordered a smaller unit as I am not big HP. Coller is 40% bigger than R34 side mount.

Have a look at ix9 post on Skylines. It is not bad, but a bit ambiguous at times.Search under Greddy plenum fit.

PM me if you want more info.

Yep I think that about covered it :blush:

throttle cable mounts to the motor side of the throttle body (might be upside down, not sure), and there is an adapter because I am using the standard throttle - I guess these plenums are made to allow for bigger throttles/more power than I need.

still had to cut the battery box slightly for TPS clearance.

throttle cable is r31 skyline but apparently ca18/s13 one also is fine.

the cooler pipe goes thru where the battery tray was quite close the chasis rail, I've fitted a smaller odysey battery in there now instead.

How is yours going Hugh, ready to run?

Cheers

I had a few more drinks last night and out the thinking cap on

I will be turning the throtle body around like yours Duncan. Throwing away the throtle body adaptor and making a new one from 10mm plate to clear the fuse box

Yesterday a bought a z32 300zx cable which is approx a foot longer which should work. How much longer is the R31 or s13 ones?

I am using a series 2 R33 throttle body as the neo body has the provision for traction control. ie too long.

Tring to reuse the hole I already have from the old fmic, so will be leaving the battery as is.

Just went bought a die grinder to clean up the plenum. A few of the bolt holes to the head aren't cast very well.

not really sure how much longer it was but it came up right. I had a second issue because my car has cruise control and the standard TB has nowhere to put that, they guys connected the cruise control cable to the main throttle cable just before the TB and it is working a treat.

yeah be careful with fit and flatness on the plenum....some people have no trouble others have heaps....typical china quality control (ie non existant...you might be lucky). most important make sure the gasket surface is flat or you will have no luck getting a proper seal. mine was milled flat before installation

I got a bit confused looking at some pics in Skylines. I have never seen under the bonnet of an R33 and it seems to me now that the 33 fuse box is different, so I will be mounting the TB the same as Duncan and getting the R31 cable as I now have a Sil and the cable is about the same as the Stagea's.

I expect the smaller fmic later this week so hopefully I should be near completion in two weeks.

Incidently I straight edged the plenum before fitting and it was .003" max out, which is pretty good for China.

Just an update. I was perturbed that Duncan's mount meant that the washer bottle had to be moved.Well I have worked out how to do it without moving the bottle. I still come down through the battery platform but there is still room to mount two Absorbed Power 12V batteries, model GT 12-18. Each has 270 CCA so they will give plenty of power for amps.

As I am not after big KWs I am using a cross flow JJ 550X140X65. It fits neatly in the available space and I wont have to move the tranny cooler, and the original input hose to the sidemount fits the set up perfectly.

There is a bit to cut off the front of the rails, not a lot and cut out the space behind the No plate and move it to the side.

When its all together I will do a DIY, Stagea specific, if needed.

good to hear hugh....got any pics??

Plenty of pics but Picasa wont let me send them. Have to get an IT brain to fix.

When its all together I will do a DIY, Stagea specific, if needed.

Good work hugh. Lol, china stuff is always out which is painful. This relocation issue and correct throttle cable sorted will be helpful and should be put in the DIY section, saves a fair bit of f**kn around knowing when upgrading plenum. Im sure there are a few people wanting to go down this path. Ive always believed in purpose built and what is yours? FYI picasa sucks.

This is the way to go if your building a 25/30, chuckies is steadily coming along. Building a forged motor and strong bottem end leaves heaps of room to play with. Dont know of any stagea owners going for a 25/26 Tomei 2.8l stroker kit, only seen em on gtrs - but i suppose both cost a bit too much for the common man on a budget. Jealous as fark.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Personally there are lots of reasons that I went rb30 instead of stroker rb26. here are some

cheaper bottom end

ok, much cheaper bottom end. $000s.

more capacity (yes, there is no substitute for cubes)

more torque at the same revs. and less revs required for longer, happier life.

better rod/stroke ratio (rb26 is already terrible, stroked rb26 are worse again)

down sides for the rb30:

stuffing around with the impact of the taller block - gearbox bolts, radiator hoses, dump pipes, intake.

ahh yeah not ready to put on yet....it is at the power coater's (CRAVED) getting re-done.

but since I left him with

2 sway bars

2 timing belt covers

4 cam covers

1 twin turbo pipe

4 coil pack covers

1 radiator

1 intercooler

1 oil cooler

1 sump

2 turbo housings

I can't complain about it taking a few weeks :(

I told him to "surprise" me with the new colour....I'm a bit nervous.

I'll ring Chris and tell him that you wanted bright pink with Barbie stickers then, okay Duncan? At least Kel will be happy!

:(

Dont know of any stagea owners going for a 25/26 Tomei 2.8l stroker kit, only seen em on gtrs - but i suppose both cost a bit too much for the common man on a budget. Jealous as fark.

Simon has one in his 260RS

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-277481129.htm

but yes, RB30 much cheaper.

Dont know of any stagea owners going for a 25/26 Tomei 2.8l stroker kit, only seen em on gtrs - but i suppose both cost a bit too much for the common man on a budget. Jealous as fark.

Simon has one in his 260RS

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-277481129.htm

but yes, RB30 much cheaper.

What people forget is the Jap's "had to" develop stroker kits for rb26 as the Rb30 block was never sold in Japan

For once we are luckier than the Jap's

Imagine how many killer Rb30's would be in Japan if they had them.

Rb30 with Neo 25 head is one of the best combo's. I can not wait to do it later this year.

Would just be nice to have 26 ITB's to make it perfect.

Yeah, I have just thrown this one out there cause I know that the 2.8l tomei stroker kit is a direct fit for 25s and 26s now and OS Giken have had a RB30DETT package for a while. Of course more cubes, ideal compression and better rod/stroke ratio is going to lenghthen the life of a motor with more torque and at same revs. I remembered after that simon from nz had a tomei kit and has proved good power figures, I have not seen the dyno results for a 25/30 build compared on a level playing field, let alone on the road. What i do know is that logistically adding RB30 gear is not as simple as perceived, from reading the (RB30 forum section) and have always wondered why not go full blown RB30 like bob is going for instead of the 25/30 and 26/30 combo and save the f**k around? The parts needed for this type of build do need a fair bit of overengineering and i know that RB30 blocks are cheap as, hence why people think they should do this in the first place but dont figure in the rest. Just want to see what is best bang for your buck across the board when spending this sort of money. Sorry to question Uncle Duncs opinion, but no one else seems to want to, lol. I still think going on others users builds that you have not factored in a accurate drive in / drive out price. Dont get me wrong your infinite wisdom is appreciated. NZ has the best experience with drag applications and info on these builds aswell. Check out Rotorua Import Pro Shop (RIPS). They are over this scenario and are moving on to 1400hp RB33s. I suppose it all comes down to budget and purpose.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Can I ask which RB30 block you guys are using to keep this conversion legal in NSW? If you are using 'other' techniques that you would rather not discuss publicly, i'd like to hear about them via PM if possible :P

Rb30 with Neo 25 head is one of the best combo's. I can not wait to do it later this year.

Would just be nice to have 26 ITB's to make it perfect.

GTiR and GTR have solid lifters and ITBs as standard equipment. 26 head on a 30 is the way to go but we are talkn RB25DET or Neo VVt so both is good. Duncan has gone about this correctly, but if your after big hp think again. In my opinion it is still much easier to build a rwd VL with this setup by not f**king around with various understated costs and the adaptor plate needed for the 4WD sump issues as Tangles has said before. I might word Ska up on it ,lol. Ultimate summernats bogan mobile.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...