Jump to content
SAU Community

Putting A Turbo Back In


azzafreddy
 Share

Recommended Posts

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks..

this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment

in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of..

the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks..

this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment

in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of..

the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

Perhaps you should take it to whoever it was that removed it, and get them to re install the turbo.

The big one at the bottom is the oil drain, the one on the opposite side of the housing to it, is the oil inlet.

The remaining pipe will be one of two water lines, but there should be two of them, one inlet and one out let.

The hose in the green circle is a boost line that activates the wastegate actuator. I'd say it should be connected to the one by the clutch reservoir that's been sealed off with a screw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

both of those copper pipes attach onto the block, the oil line (the one with the curl in it) sits towards the middle of the motor - the water pipe shown sits towards the rear of the motor (when you attach the bracket for this, it should line up to its location). there is another water line that wraps around from the other side of the motor.

here are pics ive got of mine, they arent the best but i hope it helps:

post-13452-1261362245_thumb.jpg post-13452-1261362263_thumb.jpg post-13452-1261362280_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One near the clutch fluid is the nipple that should run to the factory boost sensor, really no need for that one to have been disconnected.

The yellow hose running off the wastegate will need to go to the factory boost solenoid which is behind the intake filter box. From memory the solenoid isn't a simple in/out configuration and had a t piece thrown in, just go on ebay and get a $30 turbotech boost controller instead.

And yes you'll probably need to drain oil and coolant before removing any blocking screws from the block.

Edited by nicr4wks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One near the clutch fluid is the nipple that should run to the factory boost sensor, really no need for that one to have been disconnected.

The yellow hose running off the wastegate will need to go to the factory boost solenoid which is behind the intake filter box. From memory the solenoid isn't a simple in/out configuration and had a t piece thrown in, just go on ebay and get a $30 turbotech boost controller instead.

And yes you'll probably need to drain oil and coolant before removing any blocking screws from the block.

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Wastegate sensor coming off the plenum after the intake throttle on the stock setup would be a little unusual, but then again wonders never cease  :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got a Nexus for one of my other cars and I was surprised how simple it is to use and seems like a good quality bit of gear. The tech support guys are good to chat with too.
    • My point is more so focused on the division between cylinders 1 to 3 vs 4 to 6. Any low mount "bolt on" aftermarket manifold utilises an open T3 collector which has crap all scavenging effects. Sure it might allow you to slap in more timing up top to make a little more but you'll lose all the down low performance. Even Tao from @hyper-gear has experienced the same when modifying the stock manifold. He has experienced added lag by cutting out the divider inside vs. leaving it alone. Twin scroll works, even if the effort is focused primarily on the manifold and an open scroll turbine housing. Please don't confuse me with a V8 NA or Americans that thinks you need back pressure in a 4 stroke motor.
    • I bought mine from Concept Z https://conceptzperformance.com/hks-stainless-steel-catback-exhaust-system-full-dual-muffler-infiniti-q60-coupe-17-cv37-awd-rwd-31014-kn001_p_32626.php Put it on myself. Very easy jack stands. But if i was going to do it again i would get something like this   https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-infiniti-sport-exhaust-kit-axle-back-exhaust-system-infiniti-q60-17-coupe-cv37-b0100-q60st_p_30289.php Or just straight pipe it the whole way. I drove the car without an exhaust for shits and giggle when i was swapping it and it's not very loud at all. 
    • Ignore the monster truck ride hide, I messed up on the offsets and widths and ended up ditching them a few weeks later when my coilovers didnt fit
    • I always drive with the tire pressure gauges showing the PSI because I'm paranoid about getting a flat tire and not knowing then keep driving and tear it apart. No amount of goo is going to fix a shredded tire. My Q60 has the goo and the V36 had the goo too. Never used it but I have used the pump to pump up the tire to get home. Then I fixed it with a plug. Wasn't keen on the goo.
×
×
  • Create New...