Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would love to get my setup a bit more responsive than it is now, I have a hypergear atr28/g3 highflow on an auto rb25neo. Have nistune, exhaust, t-bar boost control stock injectors etc.

Getting 230rwkw at 15psi which is great but boost doesn't reach peak till almost 4000rpm.

Would changing the boost control to ebc or changing the stock actuator help it boost quicker or is it just the size of the turbo? Anything else i can add on other than a high stall on the auto?

Cheers...

shorter cooler pipen wil help a lil bit, dont go ebc,...... that equals more lag and spikes then tpeice, (been down the road myself $400 ebc = shit compare to $20 mech T-peice) maybe ur manifold aswell?

go with a decent EBC and you will notice a difference. with a t-piece you cant factor in the boost drop off that usually happens higher in the rev range, EBC can factor all this in.

4000rpm/15psi is average for 230rwkw.

Are you sure the actuator on there is solid and holding the gate shut? A few GCG hi-flows suffered from this in the earlu day where the preload was not enough.

Do a dyno run with a boost plot. Watch what it is like and it will tell you if a decent EBC will help you. If the boost plot comes on nice and strong and holds boost to redline than atleast you know an EBC will not help you.

I agree that 4000rpm to hit 15psi on a highflow is a bit average.

Edited by PM-R33

Regarding tuners i have used both status tuning and chasers and their both excellent tuners. All i know regarding the actuator is that its the stock neo one. would this be creeping open? dont know what the standard tension is but have heard of people using 14psi actuators?

Regarding tuners i have used both status tuning and chasers and their both excellent tuners. All i know regarding the actuator is that its the stock neo one. would this be creeping open? dont know what the standard tension is but have heard of people using 14psi actuators?

Ask trent what he thinks about it then. Im sure he has a big wealth of knowledge :blink:

take the vac line off the actuator and see what rpm you hit your target boost. then see what sort of difference there is between that and what it normally is

depending what the tune is like atm, more timing coming onto boost can make a huge difference. i've added more than 20degrees of timing coming onto boost on my car from where a "professional" tuner had it, car feels completely different

take the vac line off the actuator and see what rpm you hit your target boost. then see what sort of difference there is between that and what it normally is

Due to potential danger of this IMO its a bit reckless to suggest it without mentioning how to avoid the risk, so you should add to that "back off a soon as you hit you hit 15psi, or you could potentially damage the motor". And maybe also what this will achieve - "if the boost comes on earlier then you have a boost control issue. ". Perhaps the OP knows these things, perhaps not.

shorter cooler pipen wil help a lil bit, dont go ebc,...... that equals more lag and spikes then tpeice, (been down the road myself $400 ebc = shit compare to $20 mech T-peice) maybe ur manifold aswell?

I disagree. A PROPERLY SETUP EBC will work at least as well as a t piece, and should work better.

Nitrous Oxide! it will bring it on REAL quick!

3lt bottom end will too.

Port work and cams

Higher static CR

Better bottomend/off boost tuning

Cam gear adjustment

Ball bearing core and billet comp wheel

Methanol and a bunch of timing

Wire the wastegate shut

Bigger/better dump pipe and exhaust set up

Heavier right foot

Get a bigger actuator before you get an EBC.

OR

Live with it... you have to sacrifice somthing for more power.

check the actuator and preload

check diff gears (manual has different to auto)

check tune

check tune

check tune

did i mention check the tune? ignition timing plays a bit part in how the car performs and more importantly comes on boost

check basics, check base timing with a timing light and make sure its correct , ie sluggish timing makes the car perform low across the board

i assume you want more responsivenesss since the turbo has been fitted

so we can assume its not an actual car problem, but more of a tune related problem, since the new turbo went on

so either the turbo is junk or the tune is poor or both

I disagree. A PROPERLY SETUP EBC will work at least as well as a t piece, and should work better.

Lol at least as well?? its $400 compare to $20 ??

if he has a boost holding issue it can also be an erray of things...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No no, sorry I think I made you misunderstand. I have this Tee as well as the lines that go from there. What I am missing is the banjo bolt that connects this line (OEM turbo oil supply line) To this hole, this line is mounted on the turbo and reaches around it so you have easy access the oil and water supply being rerouted to this dual banjo port in the front. like this
    • Nothing at the moment as previously there was a crappy braided line going from engine block directly to the turbo. I have bought a used OEM hardline for the turbo oil supply, which goes from the engine block to the marked hole. I don't have any of the OEM banjo bolts for oil except the one at the block.
    • This is the tee No specs on the page I grabbed it from, out of stock there anyway. But it kinda looks like a 1mm pitch. Would not think it's going to be 0.75mm pitch.
    • OK, I'm with you now. The outlet of the tee that is banjo'd into the block. Dunno what it is, will have a scratch around. The M11 question is.....messy. The minor diameter of an M11x1.0 male thread is 9.917mm. This is smaller than the minor diameter of a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 10.08mm). The M11 major is 11mm. That's smaller than the major on a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 0.4375" or 11.1mm) so an M11x1 bolt should pass on the major side. The pitch of a -24 thread is 1.058mm, which is really close to the M11x1, so it should go in at least several turns. I would expect M11x1 to be loose in a 7/16"-24 UNS, at least until enough thread are engaged to make it stop screwing in, if that can happen. Probably wouldn't happen on such a short bolt as you're looking at on the oil tee. Keep in mind that 7/16"-24 is NOT a standard/typical 7/16" thread. Standard is 20. That's the UNF or fine thread. -24 is really fine. I imagine that Garrett chose -24 for the turbo housing oil inlet to get the number of threads engaged up. I would not expect Nissan to have an imperial (UNF, etc) thread on that tee. I would expect it to be metric (if it is a bolt thread) or BSP (actually the Japanese equivalent of BSP) if it is a pipe thread. Given that it's a banjo, it's going to be a bolt thread. If it looks like an 11mm will go in there, then 11mm seems likely. It is very possible that some clown has stuffed that thread by trying to jam some imperial "near equivalent" into it, perhaps with those hoses of yours. Got verniers? Measure up the threads on the hoses.
×
×
  • Create New...