Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 230
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sofly - second batch of pics perfect just the 20mm spacer in first pic made it stick out to far but you didnt explain that hence calling it mexican..

aside from that this thread fails.. thread is "wheel fitment, post YOUR wheels" for the most part its random internet pics and cars that are wheels slapped on and need more this, less this to achieve "fitment" maybe should have just made it post your wheels thread..

heres some pics of mine... i consider this conservative as i have only lipped the guards. wheels are 17x8.5 and 17x9.5 panasport g7's and were used a test fit... be prepared for what i have planned when my rig is back on the road in 2011.

13022009329small.jpg

13022009332small.jpg

13022009333small.jpg

13022009326.jpg

19022009335.jpg

and for the haters... this was my daily.. and i never got pulled over.. aslong as the top of the tyre is inside guard its not really a problem. also the rears were almost flat... i can show you pics of my skid tyres and you'll see that just about the entire tyre is worn.

i dont see the point in having a lame (safe) offset... it looks like a commonwhore and is crap. and soo many cars are running around with these kind of offsets and stretched tyres, so i think the unsafe claims of stretched tyres can be put to bed... they just dont hold up anymore.

cheers

Linton

whats the difference in sizes? did you sacrifice some dish for width?

recieved my 17x9.5J +26 / 17x10.5J +/-0 VS-KF's the other day too bad im heading to thailand on sunday got no time to organise tyres and get em on :rofl: im itching to get back already haha, going on an R32, will post pics when on.

whats the difference in sizes? did you sacrifice some dish for width?

recieved my 17x9.5J +26 / 17x10.5J +/-0 VS-KF's the other day too bad im heading to thailand on sunday got no time to organise tyres and get em on :P im itching to get back already haha, going on an R32, will post pics when on.

my last rears were low brake clearance , the new ones are hi :D

fronts are 16mm more rears are 5mm more (and by more i mean less;) )

R34 sedan, 18x9.5 +15 JIC wheels, 235/40's all round, fronts really need a 225, front guards lipped and slight pull, rear's i still need to lip the guards then i can give it more low, just havnt had the time. Work in progress.

10112009170.jpg

10112009171.jpg

10112009172.jpg

19102009153.jpg

if anyone wants them

$8 and there yours :rant:

what? don't sell em to anyone. you'll get tards with sunken battleship fitment sporting them.

i say you only get to have those if a panel of experts deem your wheels to be truly hellaflush.

what? don't sell em to anyone. you'll get tards with sunken battleship fitment sporting them.

i say you only get to have those if a panel of experts deem your wheels to be truly hellaflush.

amen

are you thinking of the same car im thinking of shan? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...