Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

As most of you know my car was repossed because the loser I bought it off used it as colateral on another loan....REVS etc etc (no comments about "didnt you ring REVS" please)

I would like some advice on buying the car back at the auction. It will be coming up for sale in a couple a weeks and the case manager at the bank said it either goes to auction or for public tender. (most likely auction).

Does anyone know how these auctions work, what would be the best approach for me? I have heard you can ring the auctioneer prior to auction day and purchase it before it goes under the hammer... is this true?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

oh - and if anyone in this club buys my car - I have a spear gun.... :) hahhaa

thanks everyone!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30158-buying-at-auctions/
Share on other sites

well 1st ting you can do is

Find out exact information about the car: aution day and reserved prices etc..etc.

then go to auctioneer b4 the sale date register you as buyer... take cheque book so if you win you pay small deposite for the car etc...etc.

since you know the car you know how much its worth it eactly so set yourself a reserve price then all you have to is to bet on it.

I hope that helps.... with tricks of hackling and that... you can read about it on web site... just do general search.

Liz - find out where it's being auctioned, ring them and put in a tender. If it's above the reserve price then you should get it. Check with the auction place when you ring them - they should be able to tell you everything.

Good luck..

Sneeza

If you get the car, doest that mean you have had to pay DOUBLE for the car??????

So will will still owe the bank for the original loan u took to buy the car, plus the additional cost of getting it back...

Geez i feel for you, i hope it all works out for you.

Daniel

Yes I will still have my original loan - but the reserve price for the car is really low, so it wont be double.

I am trying to do a deal with the bank - but they reckon they cant let me buy it back direct from them (no auction) unless the loser gives them permission - cause its his debts. Which is phucked... always protecting the bad and not the innocent

Well, firs you need to know whos the auction house...

You show up around 5 times before to study the crowd...

Than get into the process.....

See how many people detail the car...during the inspection day or two earlier.......

Set your budget...lots of people don't do this than loose double in the moment...........

dont start the bid........don't over do it with high bids....

slow the bid down to 100's or 50's.............

The best is to wait to the end and jump in last if you have a good budget..............

If you want the car than thats easy..............

Above all inspection is most important......

Calculate the fees and transportation like.....towing service or get temp licence for 24hr..........

well if you want to know more PM me :thumbsup:

al

I am trying to do a deal with the bank - but they reckon they cant let me buy it back direct from them (no auction) unless the loser gives them permission - cause its his debts. Which is phucked... always protecting the bad and not the innocent

Liz, the Banks usually won't do a private deal as they have a duty to get market value for the car otherwise they can face action by the original customer - market value doesn't necessarily have to be a high price though.

If you can establish market value and offer them that then they may be interested otherwise it will get too hard for them and they will auction it.

I deal with banks and auctioneers all the time (do to me being a liquidator by profession) so have had dealings with them. If you find out the who the auctioneer is PM me as I may know them (there are a few in Perth I use all the time and get on well with).

Good Luck

Al

yeah al we knew the market value that the auction place has set for the car and the reserve price they have advised the bank. thats the reason Liz went to see the bank privately before it went to auction.

hope you can help Al.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...