Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe we can make this Sticky?? Have a comparison against other GTR's with mods or in stock form.

Got my car dyno'd today, after fitting the PFC & Cam Gears, here's the result & my list of mods.

MODS: GTR Series 3 98model

Power FC & Hand Controller

Cam Gears (Settings +4 & -6)

Stock Turbos (14psi ~<1bar)

Turbosmart bleed valve

Exhaust - stock dumps, 2.5 front pipe into 3inch, stock Cat, 3" from cat back

HKS Pods (No CAI)

Total 249.1kw @ ALL FOUR WHEELS

Thanks to:

1. boys at ICE for help & advice

2. Merli from SAU for letting me know it's kw@all four wheels, & not rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

'95 Series 1 GTR

  • Apexi Front pipe, 3" Cat, 3.5" Catback
  • Standard turbos and 'cooler
  • Boost @ 1.0 bar (Blitz Dual SBC)
  • Power FC
  • HKS pods

234.8kw at the rears

So, theoretically, with cam gears i should get a 15kw increase.. that sounds about right.

dyno.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616575
Share on other sites

If you think these figures are overinflated, that's because they were done in RWD...

If the driveshafts were left in and the cars dyno'ed on a 4WD dyno, they would read about 20kw lower.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616584
Share on other sites

If you think these figures are overinflated, that's because they were done in RWD...

If the driveshafts were left in and the cars dyno'ed on a 4WD dyno, they would read about 20kw lower.

mine made 210kw at all 4 with same mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616593
Share on other sites

If you think these figures are overinflated, that's because they were done in RWD...

If the driveshafts were left in and the cars dyno'ed on a 4WD dyno, they would read about 20kw lower.

But a GTR is in rwd mod until traction is loss so in the real world that figure is probably correct, unless of course your doing 8K luanches :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616664
Share on other sites

that seems a bit high for stock turbos!

u should have used ben at race paces dyno it gives much more realistic dyno readings

Hi INASNT,

They're stock as they come.. The car will be at ICE later this week or next. I'm getting the HKS EVC IV fitted, & need new spark plugs.

If you think these figures are overinflated, that's because they were done in RWD...

If the driveshafts were left in and the cars dyno'ed on a 4WD dyno, they would read about 20kw lower.

Hi Merli,

The dyno was done in 4WD!! "shootout mode, I think??".. not 2WD. It was done at Subaru Docklands, in Victoria. In fact it hit around 265rwkw, but that's when we dropped the boost back.

Intersting my PFC Hand Controller, shows my knock levels to average around the 13mark, max I hit was 21... is this OK?

Thanks

meshmesh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616755
Share on other sites

But a GTR is in rwd mod until traction is loss so in the real world that figure is probably correct, unless of course your doing 8K luanches ;)

Yup... absolutely true...

That's why a GTR that spins up 250kw @ wheels will be faster than another RWD car that spins up 250kw @ wheels...

Because when you actually take them to the road, the GTR is making more than 250kw @ wheels :) :) :D :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616815
Share on other sites

The dyno was done in 4WD!! "shootout mode, I think??".. not 2WD. It was done at Subaru Docklands, in Victoria. In fact it hit around 265rwkw, but that's when we dropped the boost back.

Intersting my PFC Hand Controller, shows my knock levels to average around the 13mark, max I hit was 21... is this OK?

Sorry mate, you said in your first post (and this one): 249rwkw, which means "249 rear wheel kilowatts"... Got GTRs dyno'ed on an 4WD dyno, we usually say "249 kw @ all four" so we can differentiate ;) Hope that helps!

Excellent power figures for those mods! I think we all need to get some cam gears for our GTRs soon too! Did they make a big difference in spool up time as well as a good power increase?

Oh, and great choice on boost controller! Let us know how it goes and how it compares to the bleed valve!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30410-gtr-dyno-results/#findComment-616823
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...