Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got mine Jan 2001. R33 gtst auto. 68,000 genuine k's.

all belts changed at 57,000 by Pitwork Japan with books.

now 112,000 k's.

car is modified to 170rwKW from within the first 6 months of ownership

car regularly sees redline and driven appreciately for the last 3 yrs.

services every 4000 k's with MOTUL :D

car still feels like the first day i test drive her.

Problems:

-rod bush at 85000k's; whiteline have poly ones for around $80 pair

(plus installations and alignment) i recommend the whiteline 'handling package'

while you are at it)

-car fitouts rattles after new springs went in from around 70,000k's

  • 5 months later...
  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Bought my 1987 HR31 Coupe 6 months ago, had 37,000k's when purchased, now has 42900k's on it now. And YES the are geniune k's as been check out by different mechanics.

I'm the first owner in Australia and got a 3 year warranty on it. 4.5 out of 5 rating from auction in Japan.

some of you people aren't driving (read: enjoying) your cars as much as you should be! hahaha....

what are you guys doing , just leaving the car in the garage as a mantlepiece!??!!?

i've had to change HEAPS of things!!! its such a piece of shit!!!!

-swaybars

-camber bushes

-castor bushes

-intercooler

-exhaust

-front bar

-ecu (yup! even the standard computer had to go!!!)

-i even had to fit an oil cooler!!!

have bought but need to be installed:

-turbo

-clutch

-fuel pump

-z32 afm

-fuel regulator

as you can see, lots of things can go wrong with this car!!!!!!! :D :D :D

Mine reads 28,000 or thereabouts, not genuine though, it's really about the 68,000 mark... The reason for this was that the owner in Japan replaced the standard dash with a Nismo item and had the count reset or something. judging from the interior (only seen the car in person twice, otherwise im going off a heap of photos taken of it) the car is in EXCELLENT condition. There is next to no wear on any of the interior, such as steering wheel, handbrake, seats... it's all very tidy.

got mine in dec 02 with 77000 on it and now its up to 92000 and still running lovely (touch wood). Wen its time to let this one go its definitely a r34 gtr v-spec, cant really buy anything but a better skyline i reckon after you get one... they just hook you in i tells ya

Got my '98 33 last November with 96,000 on it, now up to about 120,000 with no worries. Only problem I've had is the coilovers that I put in after buying need rebuilding in the rear. Only problem is that it's impossible to find someone who can do it. The only reply I get is "WTF Kei Office??"

bought my 93' R32 GTS25 with 96000 kms on it. had it for about a year and half and now its just under 120000 kms. When I first bought it, tail shaft Centre bearing and one fuel injector had to be replaced. Bushes were changed at around 110k kms. Now, the car is misfiring when both idling and driving (been happening since around 112000 kms) and when this does happen, he car tends to shake. Is it the spark plygs that need changing? Actually, does any1 know what this exactly is?

i got mine in sept last year with about 138,000k's on it and now its got 171,000k's on it..

changed waterpump, gearbox ( auto to manual ), shocks, springs, other than that its been pretty good... the front cv's need replacing now so thats the next thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...