Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A grade 4 R32 N1 with 94,000kms on it in original condition, and a R34 V Spec II N1 (just like mine, one of only 18 built) with 28,000km on it.

Am I the only one excited by this? Or do you guys like your aircons?? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304803-n1-lovers-youre-spoilt-for-choice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A grade 4 R32 N1 with 94,000kms on it in original condition, and a R34 V Spec II N1 (just like mine, one of only 18 built) with 28,000km on it.

Am I the only one excited by this? Or do you guys like your aircons?? lol

We like trying to diagnose our aircons.

Seriously I'm interested in how much imported R34 GTRs would cost.

Kristian, any pics details?

Unfortunately can't afford another one, but trying to gather details on as many as i can :-)

R32 - BNR32-222233 (cool chassis number!)

R34 - BNR34-401357

26235_002.jpg

10165_002.jpg

In terms of price, the 34 has a few light mods on it so is starting relatively cheap, probably similar in price to the equivalent NUR I suspect - the last one to go through auction was mine, nearly 2 years ago, so it's a bit hard to get a feel for the prices :)

Nice. I've always wanted one as a collector's item and I'm guessing that these hold their value much better than the normal R34 GTR's?

I hope so or I've spent and awful lot of money on a dud lol

more info about the R32 please!

Sent!

yeah I was looking very hard at the 34. it was actually up last week and was passed in. I think the owner is probably after about 3.8mil or so which would put it just under $60K on the road. had someone have a quick look and the interior is pretty worn for a car with only 28K kms and has ciggie burns in the roof lining etc. previous owner didn't really look after it it seems. I was pretty keen but don't think it's one for me. :)

the gold Mspec that's up today does look quite nice though. could be a good buy.

lol I saw it last week too but didn't have anyone on it so didn't bother getting anyone to look. C interior isn't ideal for a car with those kms for sure, and it wouldn't be the first time USS Tokyo has 'forgotten' to mark cars with a * next to the kms...

If it sold at 3.8 mil it'd be a very generous agent who only charged you 90,000FOB :D In relative terms it would still be a bargain for someone who wanted to restore it to good health though.

That M-Spec reads nicely, Silica Blaze has never really floated my boat, pretty rare colour for someone who likes it.

yeah agree the gold is not my cup of tea. nor is the green for that matter (I refuse to call them by their stupid names!). I would take silver, white and black and purple over both those 'special' colours any day. :) but like you say for someone who likes it, the M spec looks to be a good car, and is a bit 'special' too. for someone after a neat GTR it would be worth looking at that's for sure.

I still would have considered the N1 if I thought I could win it really cheap but I don't think it will be. shame it's not nicer. :D

correct me if im wrong, but shouldnt the N1 r32 GTR's have the N1 bodykit? that one in the pic doesnt?

Various bits and pieces could be optioned in and out of the 32 N1s at the owner's request.

This one actually has aircon too - in fact looking at it, the spec is almost exactly the same as the one I bought a few months back (went to a collector in NZ).

well the 32 comes back as a KBNR32RXFSZN model. I can't remember of the top of my head if that's N1 code or not. I think it is. pretty sure the ZN at the end puts it as an N1.

correct me if im wrong, but shouldnt the N1 r32 GTR's have the N1 bodykit? that one in the pic doesnt?

The only piece missing that i can see is the boot lip spoiler.

Otherwise it looks identical to my 92 N1.

You may be thinking of V-Spec N1's (93/94) which also got the rear splat thingy's joining the side skirts before the rear wheels, and the Brembo's and 17's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...