Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How hard is it to get the clock out? And is there a tutorial on this? Would love to take my clock apart but not game until I can see it step by step... If you could make a quick one that would be awesome!

Hey mate,

It needs very experienced hands to de/resolder. If you've never used a desoldering station to remove large integrated circuits before, I'd leave it for a pro. If you print out the photos and take it to a TV repair shop, they should fix it for well under $100, I'd guess $50 or so.

Someone else said they cut all the pins on the VFL then resoldered them back on after fixing the problem.

It will work if you can't desolder however I'd be stupidly careful, would be so easy to chip the glass by cutting the pins because its puts a lot of force on a tiny area of the display.

I'm not even sure what a desoldering station is :) i've done a fair bit of soldering but never delicate stuff. Sound systems and stuff. So if I just took those photos you posted a few months back and explained that it's the solder on those 30 ohm resistors they'd know what I'm talking about and be able to do it? What if they broke it? Would I have to source a new one?

  • 2 years later...

Thanks a lot for this topic and thanks bozz. I repaired my digital clock today, and it work !

I used a desoldering station to remove the "front panel" and i resoldered the 4 resistances (just 1 needed it). Time of this operation : 30 min.

  • 1 year later...

It would be appreciated if someone could do this a service for other 32 owners on a profit basis.

I'm sure there is heaps that need doing.

I've had a few dead ones.

Manage to find a working one and was lucky enough to find and squirrel away a new one for when the current one goes.

Yes, it was the resistors under the VFD. I now have a rework station and I'm happy if people want to post them to me and I'll post them back. I live in SA. Just text or call

0431 398 657

Jmhinkle, the burnt corner of the glass is how they deal those displays. It's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they suck the air out of the screen and then burn the corner to seal it. The burn mark does not indicate a faulty display.

You won't see the dry joints there Joel, have to lift the vacuum display to expose the 3-resistors.

Carefully !!!!

Not completely true. There is a thread on a Z32 Forum, which used the same clock, that found the two resistors on the back with dry solder cracks as well. That's what I was referring to when I initially pulled it apart.

Jmhinkle, the burnt corner of the glass is how they deal those displays. It's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they suck the air out of the screen and then burn the corner to seal it. The burn mark does not indicate a faulty display.

The corner burn on my VFD seemed quite large so I was concerned, but looking back at the pictures posted it is there too. Once my family has left town and I have some time, I will break out the desoldering station and pull it apart. Thanks for the help and clarification.

  • 4 months later...

How bad is it resurrecting a 4 month old thread?? I assume this is similar to GTST models as well - just pop her open and figure out if resistors or solder etc??

Also, PM'd @Samuel Leonard

I unhooked the VFD, resoldered the resistors below and a few other spots as well. When I power it up now it comes on at 1:00, but none of the buttons seem to work. Any ideas on that?

Did you sort this out? And is there any issues with Vacuum display not being under vacuum anymore?

100 is the normal time they reset too. I've redone a few of them. I do have a desoldering station so no issues with pulling the VFD. Trying to do it by hand without at least a really good desoldering iron will be extremely hard. You have to get those contacts clean before attempting VFD removal. I've been replacing the 3 buttons as well. I picked up a bag of 100 pretty cheap and I've seen several dead button so far when they come in.

Buttons and resoldering the resistors under the VFD fixes everything. I do repair them, but I'm in the US and started the service for people here since we are just now getting the cars. If you want to ship to me I can do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...