Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question, If u take off normally but then slowly boost it into the high revs 7 -8000rpm in 1st gear just to feel the boost but theres not enough road so then i put the clutch in quickly and let the engine wind down like its in nuetral, is that shocking the engine more then putting it into second gear straight away?

Summary: The revs go REALLY high in gear then then in mid or high boost take it out of gear, im just wondering if that bad for the engine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305531-what-stresses-the-engine-more/
Share on other sites

meh its basically like reving ur engine while ur cars in neutral but ur using the gear to move the car..

i dont think ur doing damage.. but like any car sooner or later u will ware out something ... piston rings or something especially at 8000rpm...

personally i dont know why ur thrashing 1st gear to 8k rpm all the time ... ur gona blow something.

Also on that note.. i hope ur not killing 1st gear that much on our Victorian roads :D

meh its basically like reving ur engine while ur cars in neutral but ur using the gear to move the car..

i dont think ur doing damage.. but like any car sooner or later u will ware out something ... piston rings or something especially at 8000rpm...

personally i dont know why ur thrashing 1st gear to 8k rpm all the time ... ur gona blow something.

Also on that note.. i hope ur not killing 1st gear that much on our Victorian roads :D

Actually its more like 7000rpm thats the peak time of boost when i normally kick it into second, but sometimes you dont want to keep going.. so u just nuetral it. (sydney) :)

Just a quick question, If u take off normally but then slowly boost it into the high revs 7 -8000rpm in 1st gear just to feel the boost but theres not enough road so then i put the clutch in quickly and let the engine wind down like its in nuetral, is that shocking the engine more then putting it into second gear straight away?

Summary: The revs go REALLY high in gear then then in mid or high boost take it out of gear, im just wondering if that bad for the engine?

Please dont do this on the street, it makes baby jebbus cry and makes the police a bit upset to, do some track days and stuff and leave the hooning to the falcodoores.

,

Just a quick question, If u take off normally but then slowly boost it into the high revs 7 -8000rpm in 1st gear just to feel the boost but theres not enough road so then i put the clutch in quickly and let the engine wind down like its in nuetral, is that shocking the engine more then putting it into second gear straight away?

Summary: The revs go REALLY high in gear then then in mid or high boost take it out of gear, im just wondering if that bad for the engine?

from reading this post and a few of your others it seems you have no idea about how to drive a car, let alone a GTR.

i suggest you sell it before you hit a pole, seriously.

im just asking cause i havent been taking it out of the garage for awhile and went to warm it up around the block but theres not enough road and wanted to hit boost lol its not like i do it every time i drive... Battery ive been driving the car for 3 years now! asking whats stresses the engine more this or that makes not know how to drive ?? i bet i drive the car better then u !

Edited by GTRAAH
im just asking cause i havent been taking it out of the garage for awhile and went to warm it up around the block but theres not enough road and wanted to hit boost lol its not like i do it every time i drive... Battery ive been driving the car for 3 years now! asking whats stresses the engine more this or that makes not know how to drive ?? i bet i drive the car better then u !

lol your not supposed to hit boost until the car is warmed up, let alone 1st gear 8000rpm journeys...

Why u flaming the bloke, hus just asking a question.

And Juz...... wtf are u doing here, you dont even have a car...... the BMX bike forums are just a google search away for ya..... go bother someone eles

lol your not supposed to hit boost until the car is warmed up, let alone 1st gear 8000rpm journeys...

Not warming i meant lubricating it haha I know your not meant tohit boost until its warmed i idled it for ahwhile before driving around the block.

ahahaha, the flamers in this thread are just as bad as the OP. no infact they are worse (except terry). h said he is only mildly boosting it up to high revs. not flooring it. 2 completely different things. also not really hooning other than making noise. and even in a 50km/h zone, he wouldn't be much over the speed limit in first.

as for whether its bad or not, it wouldn't be that bad. i'd say that flooring in and boosting hard up in first to 6000rpm would be worse than light boost to 7000rpm. and i think dipping the clutch would probably be better than using using the engine to slow you down from that speed as the less time you spend at higher revs the better. however you will slow down just as quick (or maybe even quicker) with it still in gear.

personally i'd be going to 2nd, then slowing down again rather than holding 1st or dumping neutral and freewheeling it to a stop without the driveline engaged.

or rev it out in a 100km zone to ensure you are within the speedlimits.

ahahaha, the flamers in this thread are just as bad as the OP. no infact they are worse (except terry). h said he is only mildly boosting it up to high revs. not flooring it. 2 completely different things. also not really hooning other than making noise. and even in a 50km/h zone, he wouldn't be much over the speed limit in first.

as for whether its bad or not, it wouldn't be that bad. i'd say that flooring in and boosting hard up in first to 6000rpm would be worse than light boost to 7000rpm. and i think dipping the clutch would probably be better than using using the engine to slow you down from that speed as the less time you spend at higher revs the better. however you will slow down just as quick (or maybe even quicker) with it still in gear.

Um yeah right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...