Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question, If u take off normally but then slowly boost it into the high revs 7 -8000rpm in 1st gear just to feel the boost but theres not enough road so then i put the clutch in quickly and let the engine wind down like its in nuetral, is that shocking the engine more then putting it into second gear straight away?

Summary: The revs go REALLY high in gear then then in mid or high boost take it out of gear, im just wondering if that bad for the engine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305531-what-stresses-the-engine-more/
Share on other sites

meh its basically like reving ur engine while ur cars in neutral but ur using the gear to move the car..

i dont think ur doing damage.. but like any car sooner or later u will ware out something ... piston rings or something especially at 8000rpm...

personally i dont know why ur thrashing 1st gear to 8k rpm all the time ... ur gona blow something.

Also on that note.. i hope ur not killing 1st gear that much on our Victorian roads :D

meh its basically like reving ur engine while ur cars in neutral but ur using the gear to move the car..

i dont think ur doing damage.. but like any car sooner or later u will ware out something ... piston rings or something especially at 8000rpm...

personally i dont know why ur thrashing 1st gear to 8k rpm all the time ... ur gona blow something.

Also on that note.. i hope ur not killing 1st gear that much on our Victorian roads :D

Actually its more like 7000rpm thats the peak time of boost when i normally kick it into second, but sometimes you dont want to keep going.. so u just nuetral it. (sydney) :)

Just a quick question, If u take off normally but then slowly boost it into the high revs 7 -8000rpm in 1st gear just to feel the boost but theres not enough road so then i put the clutch in quickly and let the engine wind down like its in nuetral, is that shocking the engine more then putting it into second gear straight away?

Summary: The revs go REALLY high in gear then then in mid or high boost take it out of gear, im just wondering if that bad for the engine?

Please dont do this on the street, it makes baby jebbus cry and makes the police a bit upset to, do some track days and stuff and leave the hooning to the falcodoores.

,

Just a quick question, If u take off normally but then slowly boost it into the high revs 7 -8000rpm in 1st gear just to feel the boost but theres not enough road so then i put the clutch in quickly and let the engine wind down like its in nuetral, is that shocking the engine more then putting it into second gear straight away?

Summary: The revs go REALLY high in gear then then in mid or high boost take it out of gear, im just wondering if that bad for the engine?

from reading this post and a few of your others it seems you have no idea about how to drive a car, let alone a GTR.

i suggest you sell it before you hit a pole, seriously.

im just asking cause i havent been taking it out of the garage for awhile and went to warm it up around the block but theres not enough road and wanted to hit boost lol its not like i do it every time i drive... Battery ive been driving the car for 3 years now! asking whats stresses the engine more this or that makes not know how to drive ?? i bet i drive the car better then u !

Edited by GTRAAH
im just asking cause i havent been taking it out of the garage for awhile and went to warm it up around the block but theres not enough road and wanted to hit boost lol its not like i do it every time i drive... Battery ive been driving the car for 3 years now! asking whats stresses the engine more this or that makes not know how to drive ?? i bet i drive the car better then u !

lol your not supposed to hit boost until the car is warmed up, let alone 1st gear 8000rpm journeys...

Why u flaming the bloke, hus just asking a question.

And Juz...... wtf are u doing here, you dont even have a car...... the BMX bike forums are just a google search away for ya..... go bother someone eles

lol your not supposed to hit boost until the car is warmed up, let alone 1st gear 8000rpm journeys...

Not warming i meant lubricating it haha I know your not meant tohit boost until its warmed i idled it for ahwhile before driving around the block.

ahahaha, the flamers in this thread are just as bad as the OP. no infact they are worse (except terry). h said he is only mildly boosting it up to high revs. not flooring it. 2 completely different things. also not really hooning other than making noise. and even in a 50km/h zone, he wouldn't be much over the speed limit in first.

as for whether its bad or not, it wouldn't be that bad. i'd say that flooring in and boosting hard up in first to 6000rpm would be worse than light boost to 7000rpm. and i think dipping the clutch would probably be better than using using the engine to slow you down from that speed as the less time you spend at higher revs the better. however you will slow down just as quick (or maybe even quicker) with it still in gear.

personally i'd be going to 2nd, then slowing down again rather than holding 1st or dumping neutral and freewheeling it to a stop without the driveline engaged.

or rev it out in a 100km zone to ensure you are within the speedlimits.

ahahaha, the flamers in this thread are just as bad as the OP. no infact they are worse (except terry). h said he is only mildly boosting it up to high revs. not flooring it. 2 completely different things. also not really hooning other than making noise. and even in a 50km/h zone, he wouldn't be much over the speed limit in first.

as for whether its bad or not, it wouldn't be that bad. i'd say that flooring in and boosting hard up in first to 6000rpm would be worse than light boost to 7000rpm. and i think dipping the clutch would probably be better than using using the engine to slow you down from that speed as the less time you spend at higher revs the better. however you will slow down just as quick (or maybe even quicker) with it still in gear.

Um yeah right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...