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I am looking at 2.8 options myself at the moment, and a tuner responsible for the engines in some of the fastest time attack cars in Japan tells me they are using the Step Zero in the majority of their cars, all of which are producing at least 650PS and have yet to find the limits of the kit - Interesting feedback

It appears the Pistons and Rods included in the Step Zero are the same as those included in the Step 1, leaving the main difference as the crank

Let us know how you get on Blitz, interested.

I am looking at 2.8 options myself at the moment, and a tuner responsible for the engines in some of the fastest time attack cars in Japan tells me they are using the Step Zero in the majority of their cars, all of which are producing at least 650PS and have yet to find the limits of the kit - Interesting feedback

It appears the Pistons and Rods included in the Step Zero are the same as those included in the Step 1, leaving the main difference as the crank

So what is acutally different crank wise from the Step0 to the Step2? Is it just a lighter crank; is it still fully counterweighted?

interested as a future upgrade, hopefully will tally up nice with the my -9 turbos upgrade later this year

noob questions, will this KIT comes with all the bits that normally constitute a "RB26 mid life freshen up :) "

so that all you need is oil pump, coil pack,water pump,etc

does anyone know budget for install of such a kit

GOAL - only after super responsive Street GTR with loads of torque, Power around 280AWKW range, so not much

interested as a future upgrade, hopefully will tally up nice with the my -9 turbos upgrade later this year

noob questions, will this KIT comes with all the bits that normally constitute a "RB26 mid life freshen up :) "

so that all you need is oil pump, coil pack,water pump,etc

does anyone know budget for install of such a kit

GOAL - only after super responsive Street GTR with loads of torque, Power around 280AWKW range, so not much

Here is the HKS spec sheet:

21004-AN009_012.pdf

There are a two different kits available, the full kit including crank, rods, pistons and rings/pins, and the piston-crank kit designed for use with factory rods, which only includes HKS counter weight crank and Pistons.

Both options available with either 86.5 or 87mm pistons

Will do, the kit has been ordered so will be sure to post up some pics and details once it arrives at the workshop :)

Looking forward to your results Nick....

Did you go 86.6 or 87mm pistons?

Did you get the kit with or without rods?

Very tempted at the moment as the kit without rods works out to half the price of the step 2 kit.

Looking forward to your results Nick....

Did you go 86.6 or 87mm pistons?

Did you get the kit with or without rods?

Very tempted at the moment as the kit without rods works out to half the price of the step 2 kit.

Jack,

I was informed by one of the HKS Pro Dealers in Japan that the Step Zero uses the same pistons and rods found in the Step 1 and 2.

I ordered the Full Kit with 86.5mm pistons which is going into a new N1 block :)

I can't find pricing for the step zero.

Is 400,000 yen for the full kit or just crank and pistons. I noticed the full step 2 kit through nengun is close to $9K.

Does the crank and piston kit still come with the rings and pins?

So your still going to use GTSS Nick?

I can't find pricing for the step zero.

Is 400,000 yen for the full kit or just crank and pistons. I noticed the full step 2 kit through nengun is close to $9K.

Does the crank and piston kit still come with the rings and pins?

So your still going to use GTSS Nick?

Hey mate,

The 400,000 Yen is the 'Full Kit', so Crank, Rods, Pistons, Pins, Rings

The 'Piston-Crank' kit is significantly less but doesn't include rods.

Also worth noting for anyone questioning the quality of the kit, is all components are Japanese made.

I already have a new set of GT-SS's at home, so being that the Step Zero is designed for response, im going to chuck the GT-SS's on and see how far I can push them!

At that price it still works out to ber quite an expensive excercise by the time you pay freight, tax's etc.

I think the nitto 2.7 with the billet counter weighted crank might be a better proposition.

They claim it will rev to 12,000 rpm which is a shit load more than the hks zero setup.

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At that price it still works out to ber quite an expensive excercise by the time you pay freight, tax's etc.

I think the nitto 2.7 with the billet counter weighted crank might be a better proposition.

They claim it will rev to 12,000 rpm which is a shit load more than the hks zero setup.

I have seen the Step Zero Full Kit as cheap as 357,000 yen (Approx ~$4,279.00 AUD) - Whats the best price you have found on the Nitto 2.7?

CJ-Motor lists them at over $9,000

Hi Octane lists them at over $7,500.00

Unique Autosports lists them at $8400.00

For a car being built for track purposes, the Step Zero is a fantastic kit, and the power, response and ultimate track performance that some tuners in Japan are achieving with this kit speaks volumes and is more than ample for my application. If I was building a drag car requiring the higher rev limit, it would be a different story.

Hey mate,

The 400,000 Yen is the 'Full Kit', so Crank, Rods, Pistons, Pins, Rings

The 'Piston-Crank' kit is significantly less but doesn't include rods.

Also worth noting for anyone questioning the quality of the kit, is all components are Japanese made.

I already have a new set of GT-SS's at home, so being that the Step Zero is designed for response, im going to chuck the GT-SS's on and see how far I can push them!

Should be good to see!

Any idea on the price of the crank / piston kit?

Rohin.

I have seen the Step Zero Full Kit as cheap as 357,000 yen (Approx ~$4,279.00 AUD) - Whats the best price you have found on the Nitto 2.7?

CJ-Motor lists them at over $9,000

Hi Octane lists them at over $7,500.00

Unique Autosports lists them at $8400.00

For a car being built for track purposes, the Step Zero is a fantastic kit, and the power, response and ultimate track performance that some tuners in Japan are achieving with this kit speaks volumes and is more than ample for my application. If I was building a drag car requiring the higher rev limit, it would be a different story.

You're probably right Blitz, I was quoted around the 7 kay mark when i first enqired about the nitto kit.

The zero setup would be somewhere in the vicinity of 5500/6 kay landed so yeah, Its a fair bit cheaper but as you say, if you wanted to rev it the nitto would be the way to go.

how much labor $$ would we be roughly looking at onto of the $4.5k to get it all together? assuming you have a running rb26

Very interested in the labor cost

at the of the day, you need to budget and at least have ball park figure

how much labour $$ would we be roughly looking at ontop of the $4.5k to get it all together? assuming you have a running rb26

It all depends on who u get to do it, your basically rebuilding ur bottom end so wouldn't be cheap. If I was doing it I would get another short block and get it done, that way once it's ready pull the engine out take the head and sump off, put it all back in and retune. That way the car is off the road not as long, and plus you could sell your short and recoup some costs.

It all depends on who u get to do it, your basically rebuilding ur bottom end so wouldn't be cheap. If I was doing it I would get another short block and get it done, that way once it's ready pull the engine out take the head and sump off, put it all back in and retune. That way the car is off the road not as long, and plus you could sell your short and recoup some costs.

quoted for truth

if you have a running rb26 leave it! anyone who pulls a perfectly fine 26 out to build it is mad

building a bottom end is the same whether it was running fine or not (excluding putting a rod out the block of course)

call racepace and get a quote

It all depends on who u get to do it, your basically rebuilding ur bottom end so wouldn't be cheap. If I was doing it I would get another short block and get it done, that way once it's ready pull the engine out take the head and sump off, put it all back in and retune. That way the car is off the road not as long, and plus you could sell your short and recoup some costs.

My thoughts exactly and spot on the path I am going down.

I still need to sort out my sump and oil/water pump, plenum and a few other bits, but the block and internals will all be brand new, as will the head and associated hardware which is being setup, ported and assembled by a tuner in Japan then being sent over to me, so the target is to fully assemble the replacement engine and when its ready simply do an out with the old and in with the new swap

^ thought about this as well - reckon it's cheaper to get it put together there and sent out? I was wondering if you got a big workshop to do it, whether they could get parts cheaper than we could

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