Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which site sell the rods for 1000, Beer baron ?i can get a 2.8 crank from my turner, hes orderd afew custom 2.8 kits of his own,il go with his 2.8 crank,tomei rods,mahle pistons,maybe tomei piston if they;re cheaper then the mahle's,

Who's the tuner?

HKS themselves say go step 2

This step 0 kit really is for small power outputs - given that the stock nissan cranks can go way past the power level of this kit, i dont see why anyone would buy it unless they want to be able to say they have a 2.8 - even then its the poor mans budget option

You already know HKS are very conservative with their power figures and this being the same material as a stock cast crank it will take the same amount of punishment except giving extra cubes. Don't know how you can possibly think it's not worthwhile?CheersMarty

I would expect this kit is to give you 2.8L response. I don't think it is designed for huge power or anything. Even HKS recommend use of GTSS turbos so max expected. power would be 360rwkw?

Sounds to me like a great idea for people who want the 2.8l response but don't want to spend huge dollars for step 2 engine.

This kit sounds like it would make a great street engine!

Edited by gtr fan

stroker kit or a Rb 30/26 , ive heard people have problems with the block sitting 50mm higher, any thoughts.

It's 38. Depends on what car you have. R32 there is a little more fiddling than a 33 or 34. I own a 2.8, give me a 3.0 anyday. That should answer it!

You already know HKS are very conservative with their power figures and this being the same material as a stock cast crank it will take the same amount of punishment except giving extra cubes. Don't know how you can possibly think it's not worthwhile?CheersMarty

I wouldn't have a problem sending it over a thousand horsepower, I cant count on my hands or toes how many cars here and Japan have done it on the stock crank, so I don't see how having another 200cc balanced crank is going to make it worse, quite the opposite I would suspect.

I wouldn't have a problem sending it over a thousand horsepower, I cant count on my hands or toes how many cars here and Japan have done it on the stock crank, so I don't see how having another 200cc balanced crank is going to make it worse, quite the opposite I would suspect.

Please, go do that and tell us how you go :)

You already know HKS are very conservative with their power figures and this being the same material as a stock cast crank it will take the same amount of punishment except giving extra cubes. Don't know how you can possibly think it's not worthwhile?CheersMarty

Yes I'm aware HKS (well, all Japanese companies) err on the side of caution with part ratings whereas here we just push them until they break or another component reaches its limit.

I'm a strong believer in the stock cranks being good parts and yes they've been proved over and over by various builds/shops so as for the actual power level this will deal with - well someone needs to push one and see - there was a lot of keen comments earlier in this thread but it seems to have died down which is a shame, but when you're comparing the step zero to other offerings out there I personally don't see it as worthwhile because IMO if you're going to spend the money and build an engine with a cast crank you may as well get the best increase for the money spent so unless you have to stay with the stock block for some reason, skip 2.8, go 3L and save some money.

When I blow mine up this will be one of the front running options, not having to f**k around with all the little things that you need to get a 30 in the car.

Drive a 30. That will change your mind very quickly!

It's 38. Depends on what car you have. R32 there is a little more fiddling than a 33 or 34. I own a 2.8, give me a 3.0 anyday. That should answer it!

would you loose much of the rev limit on a 30? i know with the stokers its limits you till about 8k if ive read correct. i aussume the down low torque would be quite nice tho, with some suitable turbos you would have a very nice resposnive street machine.

HKS themselves say go step 2

This step 0 kit really is for small power outputs - given that the stock nissan cranks can go way past the power level of this kit, i dont see why anyone would buy it unless they want to be able to say they have a 2.8 - even then its the poor mans budget option

You really do dribble some crap sometimes Stevo.

And back to the factual basis of this thread for those that continue to pm me asking me about my build.

Right now by bottom end is in the process of being balanced - I have the Step Zero complete kit, with crank, rods and pistons all of which will shortly have a new home inside a new N1 block, with a brand new custom specification head setup which is being ported built and assembled for me in Japan

There seems to be a large number of people that are very keen to see the real world results of this kit, and get an idea of its limitations. I am not aware of anyone else in the country that is running this kit yet but obviously that may be wrong. I would like to point out I was looking at the Tomei 2.8, HKS Step Zero, 1 and 2 2.8, and Nitto 2.7 strokers while deciding, and my decision was not purely dollar based, but rather it was centred around what i wanted out of the car and its application which is first and foremost circuit racing where response is critical, not high rpm. Obviously at its price point its a very attractive option for what it offers - The Step Zero is designed specifically for use with GT-SS type turbos, not big singles, and I was pushed over the line after seeing the results ATTKD has achived. Incidently, ATTKD runs this exact kit in the majority of its Time Attack cars, and it is responsible for some of the fastest Time Attack cars in Japan - That was enough for me.

ATTKD/HKS advised that the pistons and rods included in the Step Zero are the same as the those in the Step 1 and Step 2, so the crank is the only difference and as Martin has posted above, HKS is always very conservative in their power ratings. Just how conservative is something I full intend to explore as the car will be setup with somewhere in the region of 500-600awhp initially, and I may well up this later and see just how far the internals will go.

Hopefully I will have some photos to put up soon.

Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...