Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my set up dynoed yesterday and had a few issues... mainly the good old missfires and then the gate decided to stay stuck open, pulled it apart and cleaned it out and was ok after that.

however its painfully slow to build boost and the boost graph looks like a gradual slope instead of ramping up and staying there. Im running a bleed valve on there atm and im led to believe that an EBC should be the way to go.

however we tested the spring from the HKS gate and its only a 0.6 bar item... not quite the 1 bar one i thought it was. So its quite soft and i dont think that a ebc will cope with running over double the rated spring pressure.

if i got a 1 bar spring, will it ramp up harder? considering the spring is slowly opening now as it builds boost i reckon it will.

target boost is around 1.1 - 1.2 bar

take the vac line off the gate and see when it hits the boost you want, back off as soon as it does tho. if the boost graphs looks good like that then you need a better boost controller, if its still no good then try a firmer spring. i find the profec b good for this stuff, as you can set exactly what boost it allows the gate to see any boost at all, meaning you can keep 0 pressure at the gate all the way up to 1bar if you want.

with good boost control you shouldnt have any trouble running double the rated spring pressure, its far from ideal but it works. i'm holding 22psi perfectly with a 12psi actuator and a profec b

Edited by JonnoHR31

If you put a 1bar spring in there, it will ramp up much harder.

With a 0.6 Bar spring you are more than likely getting gate creep.

I ran 24psi, external gate with a 16psi spring and bleed valve for the other 8psi - worked fine.

However when i was running 14psi using a 7psi spring, i would get massive gate creep even though i was bleeding less.

So without question, you will benefit from a heavier spring. Less work any boost control/valve has to do, the better.

If you want to run 1bar, stick a 1bar spring in there :worship:

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

Sell it, very old outdated technology and you can find better 48mm / 50mm external wastegates locally.

The new Turbosmart 50mm is the goods, or the GFB.

If you want something cheaper get a Tial.

haha out dated lol.

yeh im in same dilemma turbo comes on slower then expected im running 1bar spring running 1.4bar boost

seems 2 build slow.. im running no boost controller though im just tightening the allen key screw on top of wastegate to hold it closed longer

any idea if the length of the vacum line can cause the slower boost building?

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

try get your spring from these guys http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?action=fitting they are in NZ. Daryl young is the guy to speak to. he helped me out with some springs for an old HKS 60mm gate. just get the part number from the HKS website (US or Jap) and give it to him, should be able to help you out

and yes good explanation, "its just a spring and diaphragm" ......... out dated haha???

like i said, go for a drive with the vac line removed. no point buying a heavier spring then having to get an ebc aswell when it doesnt solve your problem. yes it probably will, but test before you buy

HKS springs are colour coded, you will want a yellow one for 16psi, you've probably got a pale blue or white one now???

I'm with you guys, don't see how a WG can be outdated, they are a simple thing and most are all generally pretty much exactly the same except for the bling bling [blue anodising/chrome etc etc]. Spring, diaphragm, and poppet valve!!

Plus if you use SK's formula for WG size, most are too big for my and other gtst applications. I'm doing over 280rwkw and according to SK formula needed a 40mm ie HKS is 40mm. Not saying others don't work, and you can have your 38, 48 or 60mm or whatever, but for optimum efficiency etc its supposed to be 40mm.

I actually got some 1 bar and 1.8 springs made to suit HKS 50mm gates. If you want PM me your wastegate spring Dia. I might be able to help you out with a lot cheaper solution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...