Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

radiator has developed a very smalled leak along the top. looking to replace this.

was looking on ebay and noticed they have some aluminium radiators on there for under $300, but i noticed some are different sizes ect.

what would i be looking for when buying one for a turbo R33.

cheers

Edited by HSV004
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306212-radiator-sizeoptions/
Share on other sites

Get one of these.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=300&page=1

I looked around for a while to see what radiator to get. I wanted something that fitted perfectly retaining the factory shroud, something that looked good and was larger than factory.

It came down to a couple of Jap Brand ones which were all around the $1000+ mark, a PWR one which was similar price range or the Just Jap one which obviously wasn't as good quality but substantially cheaper. At the end of the day i got the Just Jap one and am glad i made the descision. Fits perfectly, looks great, keeps temps at bay at came with a warranty. The money i saved over the $1000 ones was better spent elsewhere. Obviously if money aint an issue the PWR/Jap brands would be choice.

Out of all the cheap ones i believe the Cooling Pro ones are the better ones and a lot better quality than the $200 ebay ones.

get a koyo radiator, got 1 for my r33 gtr and couldnt be happier.

53mm thick, fits just like oem and retains all factory parts like radiator shroud

was only $700 which is damn good compared to other jap ones

As a replacement - 40-45mm is all you need really. Don't need much bigger than that.

Gives you heaps of options - i would go with anything from the SAU Traders, all those products will be good enough for what you are after by the sounds of it :P

+1 for Koyo

on the stagea, couldnt be happier

was around $500 fitted with 3yr warranty and 3yrs free servicing each december

for my track rb266dett r32 sedan I will eventually be buying the ASI unit for $199 delivered

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ASI-52mm-dual-core-...=item45f0c2a9c9

52mm, dual core, aluminium, for harsh/high temp usage (ie track)

no you dont get an s14 radiator because the top port is on the wrong side. and dont get a R33 one as your bonnet wont shut as they are too tall for the S chassis

I have a 25 in my s14 and i went with a r32 ISC alloy radiator and it seems pretty good! I made my motor fit with a clutch fan and all as i have a dislike of thermo fans.

check my sig for pics

Edited by Simon-R32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...