Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, long story short, got another R32 GTR with a supposedly rebuilt gearbox 8000ks ago, having alot of trouble getting into 2nd gear, also down shifting to 1st gear,

i have tried redline lightweight shock proof, tried adjusting clutch, etc etc.

gonna drop the box and pull it down to replace the synchro's, i need to know if anyone has done this and any tips or part numbers,

if any special service tools are needed.

i have rebuilt gearboxes when i used to work at mazda but never done any nissan boxes.

cheers guys

Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306261-rb26-gearbox-rebuild/
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Any luck with that mate?? I'm looking at a gearbox rebuild. 4th gear synchro is rooted:-S I don't know what the best option is. I got just under 250kw atw at 12pound. I need a new clutch coz it slipping but wonder if i should just do my clutch or do the gearbox/clutch all at once:-( what do you think mate?

cheers,jaydo

post-57632-1282490770_thumb.jpg

i ended up getting a 2nd hand box for $600, i just used that and its still running sweet. you can get exchange boxes off ebay, but NO warranty if your car is not 100% stock.

ps your car looks like mine :blush:

mate, I can highly recommend Competition gearboxes in Croydon, very honest guy ( can't remember guys names, got his details at work if you want) but I sent him my box from Perth, new syncros, bearings, replaced the carrier folk ( or whatever its called) ... he gave me a discount because I sent him 3 boxes ( 2 stuffed with smashed gears and more) let him keep the leftovers and he only charged me $500... he said if I just sent him my box and nothing else it would only be about $800 for new syncros and bearings and inspect everything..

don't know why you'd spend $600 on an unknown box, could have stuffed syncros also..

and yeah definately do clutch while you have the box out.

my 2c worth

If you interested in getting a rebuild talk to award diff and gearbox in Seven hills (sydney) just dont ever ever trust nissan spare parts when ordering shit though.

yeah Terry from Award diff and gearbox, knows this shit inside out, he just helped me heaps with my OS-giken front 2-way, couldn't do enough....both good, Competition & Award

  • 3 weeks later...
mate, I can highly recommend Competition gearboxes in Croydon, very honest guy ( can't remember guys names, got his details at work if you want) but I sent him my box from Perth, new syncros, bearings, replaced the carrier folk ( or whatever its called) ... he gave me a discount because I sent him 3 boxes ( 2 stuffed with smashed gears and more) let him keep the leftovers and he only charged me $500... he said if I just sent him my box and nothing else it would only be about $800 for new syncros and bearings and inspect everything..

don't know why you'd spend $600 on an unknown box, could have stuffed syncros also..

and yeah definately do clutch while you have the box out.

my 2c worth

:) sounds good!

  • 4 weeks later...

Just word of mouth here but it makes sense... If you have the syncros bead blasted (not sand blasted) then smoothe pitting makes them a bit grippy then standard so they grab eachother.

Just word of mouth here but it makes sense... If you have the syncros bead blasted (not sand blasted) then smoothe pitting makes them a bit grippy then standard so they grab eachother.

have you actually done this? and if it works to any extent, to my mind it cant be likely to last anywhere as long as new synchros.

if the problem with the synchros is that they just have a glazed surface and therefore getting slippery then yeah IMO this could be feasible. but i've also heard of guys just using a lapping paste to make a similar effect (similar to what you do to valve seats).. but only when the problem is due to the surface being glazed. if the baulk ring is actually able to move far enough to touch the surface of the other, then im pretty sure thats a throwaway. that was the case with some of mine, they then became sinkers on my fishing line

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...