Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys after all the heavy rain my 2004 350gt coupe wont rev past 2500rpm, it has a nismo cai and when i got the car home i noticed it was soaked, any ideas what to do?

sounds like a air flow meter issue, usually when theyre unplugged it wont rev past 2500rpm, i suggest taking off air flow meter, making sure its dried out really good, maybe blow some air through it, light coat of wd40 on the termnials and plug it back in, see if it helps ! Check your air filter too, if it got drenches its probly clogeed itself :D

Edited by Silver_GT

yea, if its waterlogged doubt that the car will start at all.

I suggest taking Chris's advice and take out your MAF ...clean it with some contact cleaner and let it dry.

+1 AFM, ecu is in limp mode and AFM is usual cause.

Clean with alcohol based material first, then WD as a future inhibitor. you may want to clean the circuit inside, be careful not to break anything in it, and DO NOT spray WD on the element it uses to measure airflow.

R35 VR38DETT front cut?

sorry...

If that thing was hydrolocked, he'd know about it.

At any rate, this is exactly why you don't install a low-hanging cold air intake. If you want to do it properly, get your cold air in from the scuttle panel or somewhere relatively high.

hey guys after all the heavy rain my 2004 350gt coupe wont rev past 2500rpm, it has a nismo cai and when i got the car home i noticed it was soaked, any ideas what to do?

Wait until it drys then clean it with a filter cleaner. Any brand i guess you can use. I've only used K&N.

Then you might have to do a Throttle Body reset.

If it is still not working right clean out and dry your Throttle body and Plenum.

If you have tried all this and it still doesn't work take it to your mechanic and get him to look and diagnose the problem so it can be fixed right.

reset the ecu and it revs now but it doesnt pull very hard at high rpm. I am thinking it is time for a rebuild.

Wow a rebuild. Keen

rebuild... yeh that'll work!

do not let water into the intake.... use contact cleaner on all MAF and dry air filter.

water and the internal combustion engine do not mix... you can destroy an engine, but you would know if that happened

need to reset ECU too

reset the ecu and it revs now but it doesnt pull very hard at high rpm. I am thinking it is time for a rebuild.

If you are running out of puff, your air filter may be dirty and not letting enough air through... especially if it got a little dirty when it was wet.

Try putting on the stock intake with a new filter or if your car only came with the Nismo option, just remove the pod and give it a squirt up the street.

If you have power at high revs, you know it is the filter which will either need a proper clean or replacement... rebuild is probably jumping the gun a bit.

Yeah my mechanic said that there was coolant leaking from the head when i got it, so i took it back to the dealer to get it fixed, they said they tightened the head bolts what a joke, then i took it back again cause coolant was still pissing everywhere and they "replaced the pipe to the radiator" which i reckon is a load of BS, i think they put engine seal up in the thing cause it hasn't been the as good as it used to, i might try a different MAF, get some new spark plugs and the injectors cleaned, anyone know if it i had a compression test done weather it would show weather or not they put engine seal up in?

Yeah my mechanic said that there was coolant leaking from the head when i got it, so i took it back to the dealer to get it fixed, they said they tightened the head bolts what a joke, then i took it back again cause coolant was still pissing everywhere and they "replaced the pipe to the radiator" which i reckon is a load of BS, i think they put engine seal up in the thing cause it hasn't been the as good as it used to, i might try a different MAF, get some new spark plugs and the injectors cleaned, anyone know if it i had a compression test done weather it would show weather or not they put engine seal up in?

a fix for coolant leaking from the head is not tightening the head... unless it is a water fitting that is leaking, the head needs to be removed in most cases.

if the top radiator hose is leaking, then you can replace that and if it is new, you should be able to tell.

if your not sure... you need a second opinion and fast, your mechanic said it was leaking but from where? what did he suggest that the dealer should do?

if it was me, I would start taking a log of what they said they did and go and see a trusted mechanic for their opinion.

if it is still leaking, it sounds like you have a cracked head, but they do not normally leak outside the engine block, but that will make it run like a bucket of crap and can cause fairly major issues.

if your not sure what is going on you need some help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...