Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I thought I try and save money here, please enlighten me :P

I'll try and keep this as simple as I can, my clutch is worn, mothers in Camries are flying past me, I can't even over take or drive up a steep hill :)

Facts:

- R33 Series II, GTS-t

- 250rwkWs

- Currently installed Exedy Sports Organic, Nissan BNR32, Push Type (Yes you n00bs, it fits) (NSK-7121SO)

- It's worn

- Been in the car since November, 2007

Aim:

- Replace ONLY with same Organic Drive Plate (ND05G, SO) and thrust bearing

- Rear main seal, and gearbox seal

- Machine flywheel

- Reuse pressure plate

What do you guys think? That way it will cost me only $460 in parts, or $360 if my seals are still good. I've gotten in contact with Jim Berry, but I can't afford his clutches, they're too expensive and not worth it for the power I am making.

Saying that here are my other options:

Exedy Sports Ceramic, Nissan BNR32 (NSK-7121SC)

Exedy Race Ceramic, Nissan BNR32 (NSK-7121RC)

I don't mind some shudder, but I want the clutch to last at least 30,000km

Thanks for all your help guys, I tried to search but I couldn't find the answers.

And no, don't just replace the clutch disc without doing the cover. It's half a job and you'll end up having to do it again in 6 months time or less. I couldn't count the number of people on both hands and feet who thought they could achieve a decent result by doing that and ended up coming back to use to get the job done again.

I'm guessing that's because the clamp won't be as even as a new cover due to usage and heat stress, guess I'm going for a new clutch kit.

Anyone have good experience (longivity) with Sports Ceramic clutches? I want something that would last 30,000km normal street usage and clutch bashing on the track.

My Exedy Sports Organic Button probably last 20,000km shy of my 30,000km goal but I guess that's acceptable for performance cars.

I'm tossing up between the same clutch again, or a Sports Ceramic or Race Ceramic, but scared of the short life span

i have some sort of exedy heavy duty. Only cost me $500 (full kit). Holds 320kws. Will tell you in 20 years time if it will last 30,000kms - coz my car probably does 1-2k per year.

I might just get the same clutch I am using at the moment, which is a range up from the Exedy HD (Pink) clutch range.

Kudos have them for $660 which is fab and my mate at Repco can get them for $630 which is great too.

The GTS-t version of that is HEAPS cheaper though, but the clamp is much less than the R32 GT-R Push one.

how much clamp?

i got a Jim berry clutch made up. 2300lbs. full face organic. about $500 delivered. it's obviously his lower spec'd clutch, and currently it's only dealing with 220-ish kw for now.

but when compared to the silver hd exedy, for the price, + higher clamp rating, it was the obvious choice.

I'll find out how it holds up to more power in the near future. but for now it's great.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...