Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The R34 has panel type filters in the air conditioning duct, between the fan and the evaporator.

I do have it with detailed pictures in a word doc, but it is too big for an attachment on this forum. Text only to follow...............

R34 Air Conditioning Air Filters:

SAFETY>>>>>>>>>>>All yellow wiring is related to the AirBag System. If necessary, disconnect battery before starting work

The R34 model has 2 panel-type air filters, to ensure clean air is passed through the evaporator coils. (I haven’t seen this feature on any other car before.)

Like any other filter, they also need to be cleaned, so here is some info that might make it easier next time. (It’s like brain surgery………….., easy….. when you know how.)

1. Remove the passengers-side sill trim (lever up with screwdriver, attached in 4 places)

2. Remove passengers-side kick-panel (unscrew plastic nut on firewall stud, and lever front edge off with screwdriver, attached in 2 places.)

3. Pull off rubber door sealing strip to top of dashboard.

4. Remove glovebox, by:

a. Removing the 2 lower hinge pins (by sliding inwards to unclip). Partially remove the glovebox lid, being careful not to break the tension string.

b. Remove the screw at the lower RHS of the glovebox assy, as shown below.

c. Remove 4 screws along the top edge of the glovebox.

d. Remove the screw at the lower LHS of the glovebox.

e. Disconnect the Glovebox-light cable, and remove the entire assy. The car should look like this now…

f. Remove the black spring clip on the lower edge of the white vertical filter cover, and gently lift the cover upwards.

g. Remove the 2 panel filters by sliding out the lower one first, and then the top one will fall down.

h. Remove the white fibre concertina element (dust filter), from both panels, gently clean with compressed air, then wash in hot water and detergent.

i. Remove the black honeycomb element (deodorising filter), from both panels, and very gently clean with compressed air only.

If you clean these elements carefully, they can be reused, as I would hate to think what a replacement filter would be worth.

The filters on my car were absolutely filthy…a fine specimen of the air quality in Tokyo I suppose!

Assemble parts in the reverse order, but pay particular attention to the alignment pin above the screw, on the lower RHS of the glovebox assy. See Fig 1 above.

As with all plastic parts on cars, don’t use excessive force to remove or replace them.

Hope this helps any fellow R34 owners.

Regards,

GK.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30811-r34-air-cond-air-filter-maint/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Yeah I did all this a little while ago when installing my e-manage.....which now resides on the vent covering the A/C....I only had little bit of crap in there...probably a load of Japanese seeds :( better get the Croc Hunter and quarantine onto it...crikey!

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...