Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im going to weld in a bung for my techedge wideband O2, was just curious about the best place for this, should I put it somewhere on the dump pipe, or somewhere just before the cat? I could use the original narrowband O2 position and get my wideband to simulate a narrowband signal, but apparently the factory O2 position is too close for a wideband.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308274-best-place-for-a-wideband-o2/
Share on other sites

I installed mine in the factory position and using the simulated narrow band signal back to the powerFC for close-loop operation.

From what I gather, the closer the better because there is no lag in readings. I know heat kills O2s but if you're car is running predominantly rich the O2 should survive.

Good point...

johnnilicte do you leave your wideband permanently in or once you finished tuning did you put your narrowband back?

Also how do i find out what the standard narrowband signal looks like so you could simulate it? or did you wideband controller do all this automatically? I think with the techedge your suppose to plot the points for the wide-narrow conversion (possible file on this already out there but I havnt looked)

Edited by ascenion24

I have left mine in for logging purposes, apparently the Bosch sensors are good for 80,000k's. They should be mounted no more than 12 inches from the turbo outlet according to the destructions.

I'm running an Innovate LC-1 with DB Gauge, I have it permanantly installed in the car. So far no dramas, have done 2000kms (I rarely drive my car).

Innovate LC-1s have 2x Outputs, 1x for Wide Band, 1x for Narrow Band.

Im going to weld in a bung for my techedge wideband O2, was just curious about the best place for this, should I put it somewhere on the dump pipe, or somewhere just before the cat? I could use the original narrowband O2 position and get my wideband to simulate a narrowband signal, but apparently the factory O2 position is too close for a wideband.

Too hot.

They need to be in operational temperatures, but not boiled.

The good news for you is that the techedge/bosch combination has a heater; so you can pretty much place it where you like.

I'd put it a couple of feet back from the outlet; if that means "just before the cat" then that should be fine.

Cheers,

Saliya

I have dramas with my innovate, as i believe it is too close to the turbo, about 20cm. Interestingly innovate sell a bung extender/heatsink to alleviate this problem.

doesnt every one :thumbsup:

ive got about 4 lc1's (2 wont talk to the programmer fk knows why) and 2 i use for V8's. My old LM1 seems to be the most reliable and is used for auto tune ecu's.

I get about 2 weeks from a sensor (my dyno uses the same sensor) bear in mind it runs 8 hours a day and gets hammered by vibration and sooty cars. The heat sink is cool and i use one for tuning alot of the jap turbo kits where the sensor is about 10cm's from the exducer.

I would fit the sensor about half way between turbo and cat, they dont like impact (rocks, constant water spray etc) so it is nice to have it up a little.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...