Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone

I am still relatively new to the whole import scene but am learning all I can as quick as I can. Anyway, one of my staff has approached me with some questions. He has a wad of cash and wants to buy a HPI. Of course I reccomended a Skyline. Now what I need. I need some pro's and con's to each model listed, and also the GTR variants. As I have only ever owned and driven a 33 I am a little out of my realm.

Please list feedback about your cars, how they handle, fuel usage, performance aspects, good points and bad. What to look for etc when finding the beast of your dreams.

Please be short and sweet as he will be reading this under my login when there is some discussion and I don't want him scared by your knowledge.

Cheers Crew

Blinky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The initial outlay for a newer model is generally offset by the things they need to fix in an older one.

R32's obviously have less torque than a 33 or 34 due to the 25 vs 20.

My car doesnt chew fuel at all, nor oil. Get 460km to a tank ~52L or so when i fill up, so thats more than your average car but not by a huge amount.

33's seem to be a bargain atm, not much more than a 32 with a 25 in them and a bit newer which may or may not be an advantage depending on the car in question.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091248
Share on other sites

Non GT-Rs

32's are getting old and finding a good one that hasn't been molested isn't easy.

33's...get a silver 33gtst...you'll blend in with the other boat owners.

34...That would be the go

GT-R

32...see above plus maintenance costs, if youve got the coin go for it.

33...still a boat lol

34...Still a lot of money

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091670
Share on other sites

Non GT-Rs

32's are getting old and finding a good one that hasn't been molested isn't easy.

33's...get a silver 33gtst...you'll blend in with the other boat owners.

34...That would be the go

GT-R

32...see above plus maintenance costs, if youve got the coin go for it.

33...still a boat lol

34...Still a lot of money

:)

Personally, I love 32 GTSt's, 33 GTSt's I didn't like the drive and 34 GTT's at the time were far too expensive. GTR's were out of the question because I wanted fulltime RWD.

If the guy has heaps of cash and a reasonable mechanical aptitude then buy whatever feels nice to drive and deal with any issues as they arise.

If mechanical aptitude is lacking then buy the newest, least modified thing he can so as to avoid excessive maintenance and labour costs.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091724
Share on other sites

R33's might be a boat but there still faster than an R32.

The R33 handles well with decent coilovers.

Fuel usage for me is ~420km/50L

Performance wise, meh. It's alright I suppose for someone new to turbo cars.

R33's are common (Series 2 are slightly less common than Series 1, but all series 2's seem to be either white or silver lol)

Interior's much more modern than an R32

All R33's seem to get the same problems, nothing really major though.

Bit tail happy.

Edited by Dani Boi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091726
Share on other sites

8-14K = R32's are lighter, and have a lower centre of gravity than R33's but the RB20 is old tech now and have little low down torque, and when you start to get power out of it it gets real laggy. I reckon the are an absolutely beautiful car from the early 1990's.

9-15K = R33's look ugly (except the GTR and the Series 2 stock kits are ok). The RB25's are nice. You can still make 350-400 HP with it still being quite responsive.

15-25K = R34's are awesome. Look great and have solid engines. Have to mess around with some emissions controls to get some power out of a standard car.

R32 GTR's are great, but still need a fair bit of money to run and own

R33 GTR's are good too

R34 GTR's are amazing, but you will need coin to enjoy the car to the fullest.

If your bro has cash. Buy a Modified R32 with a RB25 (preferebly a NEO from R34). Then you get benefits of a Light chassis with good torquey engine.

But if you buy it modified, you either buy a lemon or one that has had a lot of money thrown at it properly.

Edited by reNEGaDe88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091764
Share on other sites

R32's are getting a bit old in the tooth now. Everything on it will be worn, unless it has a newer engine (RB25), new clutch, brakes, shocks and springs/coilovers, fuel pump.

R33's have newer interiors and feel more solid and built inside. Look ugly unless you have a proper kit on it.

R34's are killer inside and out.

It depends what your mate wants out of a car. If he wants a weekender with large trackability, get a R32 (rwd) with a RB25.

If he wants a daily streeter get a R33 or R34.

If he wants a awesome do it all daily get a R32/R33 GTR, which you can track easily too.

If he has bulk coin get the R34 GTR, which is incredible, but still expensive and expensive to fix.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091775
Share on other sites

Probably don't do what I did. I intentionally bought a lemon, so I could have fun fixing it, but it's a lot of work. Still good fun though.

Also, I was really looking for a 32, but couldn't find a nice one/wasn't patient enough to, and got a 33 instead. In retrospect I'd rather have saved a bit more, and gotten a 32 GTR or something. 33's are nice and pretty much drive themselves though, but 32s mean you instantly have moral high ground =D

Oh, and I don't know about other models, but so many people have crashed/wrecked 33's that you wont want for a part that you can't find in the next decade or so.

I'm with Renegade's last suggestion, if he's got cash/patience, I'd go a 32, since they're light and just seem more fun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091776
Share on other sites

All R33's seem to get the same problems, nothing really major though.

Bit tail happy.

On the contrary the HICAS makes the rear more planted right?

Couple of other things:

Only 34's have traction control right?

33's are a bit more roomy so good if you are like 6 foot plus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091848
Share on other sites

Non GT-Rs

32's are getting old and finding a good one that hasn't been molested isn't easy.

33's...get a silver 33gtst...you'll blend in with the other boat owners.

34...That would be the go

GT-R

32...see above plus maintenance costs, if youve got the coin go for it.

33...still a boat lol

34...Still a lot of money

:blink:

Personally, I love 32 GTSt's, 33 GTSt's I didn't like the drive and 34 GTT's at the time were far too expensive. GTR's were out of the question because I wanted fulltime RWD.

If the guy has heaps of cash and a reasonable mechanical aptitude then buy whatever feels nice to drive and deal with any issues as they arise.

If mechanical aptitude is lacking then buy the newest, least modified thing he can so as to avoid excessive maintenance and labour costs.

+3 except GTR > GTST :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5091870
Share on other sites

it all depends on how much cash you got really

these days, theres alot of modified skylines out there and u may find that a nicely modified clean r33 gts-t will give you far more enjoyment than a stock r34 gt-t

after you know how much u want to spend, u have to ask yourself, what you want in a car, will it be your daily driver? etc etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5092622
Share on other sites

Skyline GTR R32 , R34 still look the goods but i have to agree with most of people out there ,the R33 is looking really outdated and im not a fan of any GTS-Ts/ GT-Ts :thumbsup:

Edited by NISSAN GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308531-pros-and-cons/#findComment-5092644
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...