Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Price $22,000.00 ONO

130,100Ks

Has had 100,000k service done

Silver in colour

Nismo Aero body kit

Mods

Tein Aus spec super street coil overs

Garrett GT 3076r .82 external gate

external oil cooler

3" turbo back exhaust

Tomei Fuel Pump

Front mount intercooler Custom stainless piping

Gizzmo MS-IBC electronic boost controller

Innovate Wideband installed

Nistune ECU

Nismo 480cc injectors

Nissan Z32 AFM

18" rims and tyres (235/40r18 front ,265/35r18 rears)

Brakes just been redone

regularly serviced

MV Automatics stage 2 Shift kit installed

Has done 248kws with old housing

Comes with Safety Certificate and rego until June

This is a very tidy car and drives very well

Contact Via PM

Edited by Haines
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308556-r34-gtt-1999-2-door/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hey, i just want to know what do you mean by ""MV Automatics stage 2 Shift kit installed"" Do you mean only the valve body from MV Auto??? only because I see that you have a tiptronic. I have a tiptronic, i wanted to put in a full shift kit to manualise my car, and he told me that it cant be done because it already has tiptronic, so only the valve body can go in... so whats yours???

I believe full manual would make it stage three if anything

I come from the old school V8 days and from memory thats a stage 3

stage 2 is just the valve body ,harder firmer shifts

And Phil I'd love for it to sell soon

Edited by Haines


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...